Profiles of the artists who sculpt and influence the pinnacle of fashion.

All episodes are minimum 25min duration unless stated otherwise.

FASHION FOLK Series 5 [16x26min episodes]

FASHION FOLK S05 EP1 Alexis Mabille [PARIS],Yiorgos Elefteriades [Athens], Manuel Bolano [Barcelona]

"Alexis Mabille [PARIS]

Alexis Mabille was born in 1977 to a middle-class family in Lyons, France. His mother had an interest in fashion, and taught the young Mabille how to use a needle and thread. He developed an expertise in creating clothes, and as a teen would dress his family and friends. In 1995, Mabille enrolled in the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne for a three-year course. In 1997, he graduated early due to his early expertise at couture designs. He would then train at Ungaro and Nina Ricci. After his training at Nina Ricci and Ungaro, Mabille moved to Dior where then-creative director John Galliano noticed his talent and appointed him to design the 1997 accessories collection for the house. It was a major success, and he collaborated on the men's jewelry collection with Hedi Slimane, who would later go on to head Dior Homme.[3] He would continue his service at Dior while collaborating with such celebrated fashion houses as Yves Saint Laurent and Lancôme.[1] In 2005, he launched his namesake label, his designs at that time unisex. He used the bowtie as his logo, which also showed up in his designs.[1] His collections for Ready to Wear were lauded across the fashion world, with such people as Karl Lagerfeld and Mick Jagger praising his bowtie collections.[3] In 2008, Alexis Mabille showed at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week for the first time.

Yiorgos Elefteriades [Athens]

Yiorgos Eleftheriades’ collections have been displayed in Athens, Paris and Barcelona. His philosophy is based upon his love for classical forms. In his search for contemporary elegance, he aims to create a truly alternative urban style with interesting shapes, quality tailoring and experimental combinations of fabrics and textures. He is often fond of bringing together contrasting materials or elements. The main idea behind his perception is a trans-seasonal timelessness and, a glamorous but cool day-to-night approach. The clothes might appear minimalistic and boldly outlined when worn matchingly, but can also be worn in a more accessible and softer neo-romantic style, with the juxtaposition of fabrics and silhouettes. Being environmentally conscious, he has been using natural and eco friendly textiles since the start of his career. His work has been presented in many magazines such as: Numero homme, Dapper Dan, Mixte, Soon, Vogue Japan, Harper’s Bazaar Japan, Dazed&Confused Japan, Amusement, Metal, Surface, Zoo Magazine, So Chic, Wallpaper, 10, ID, Gad Japan, Glamour and Citizen K... etc.

Manuel Bolano [Barcelona]

Born in Barcelona, but brought up in the Spanish province of Galicia. In 2002 he moved back to Barcelona, and in 2007 graduated from the College of Design and Fashion Felicidad Duce, where he won the prize for the best Collection in his year-group at Bread & Butter Barcelona. He takes part in the Open Catwalk of Murcia, and wins prizes at the competition for Young Creators in Madrid, the Noovo Festival of Santiago de Compostela, Young Murcia and is selected for the Bressol Project of the Government of Catalonia. Since 2008 he has unveiled his collections at 080 Barcelona Fashion and has won the prize for the best female collection on two occasions: Summer 2011 “Something about me“, and Summer 2012 “How to repair a broken heart”.

 

FASHION FOLK S05 EP2 Sharon Wauchob [PARIS], Boris Schipper & Pedrosa Arques [Barcelona], Eleonore von Schwanenflügel [Berlin]

"Sharon Wauchob [PARIS]

Sharon Wauchob was born in 1971 in Newtownstewart in County Tyrone, Ireland. She moved to London and studied at Central St. Martins Fashion College, graduating in 1995. Japanese designer Koji Tatsuno saw her graduation show and invited her to work with him in Paris, which she did. After that she worked briefly for the house of Louis Vuitton. In 1998, Sharon decided to launch her own label under her won name specializing in “alternative” fashion. She set up her studio in Paris. She shows her collections twice yearly during the Paris Fashion Week. In addition to her own creations, she also works with other companies. In August 2003 she landed a contract with the 70 year old house of Bruno Magli to design shoes, handbags, belts and accessories. She also works with companies in Northern Ireland to develop original fabrics and designs.

Boris Schipper & Pedrosa Arques [Barcelona]

Boris Schipper was born in the Netherlands in 1973 and Tomas Pedrosa Arques in Belgium in 1969. The SCHIPPER/ARQUES label was formed in Belgium in 2008. After dropping out of the Gerrit Rietveld academy in Amsterdam, Schipper and Pedrosa Arques started working together in 1998 as stylists for clubs, music videos and fashion, evolving to the point of catering to high level private clients worldwide. Their conceptual approach and counterculture story telling as well as an outspoken opinion about all visual communication and make-up are an essential part of the brand identity. Work has been published in Vogue China, Italy and Spain, Citizen K, Another Magazine and many others.

Eleonore von Schwanenflügel and Stephanie Pupke [Berlin]

The fourth womenswear collection of VONSCHWANENFLÜGELPUPKE centres on the printed motifs of the scarves set in unique, geometric gowns. Some of the blouses and skirts are decorated with needlework in wool and ribbon suggesting trellises and a hothouse filled with plenty. Intuitive themes are coupled with precious, classical qualities. The Collection has the casual look of thirties and forties informal wear with golden-accented porcelain jewellery.

FASHION FOLK S05 EP3 Rabih Kayrouz [PARIS], Krizia Robustella [Barcelona], Panos Emporium [STOCKHOLM]

"Rabih Kayrouz [PARIS]

Rabih Kayrouz was born in Lebanon in 1973. Kayrouz migrated to Paris at the age of 16 to study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.[2] Career In 1995, after training for several months in the workshops of design houses Dior and Chanel,[3] Kayrouz returned to Beirut where he developed a reputation for designing evening gowns and wedding dresses.[4] In 2008, Kayrouz returned to Paris to open his own design house at 38, Boulevard Raspail. Tje location was previously "Le Petit Theatre de Babylone" where Beckett's play "Waiting for Godot" was performed for the first time .[5] Since 2009, Kayrouz has been a guest designer for the Cham­bre Syn­di­cale de la Haute Cou­ture,[6] with his seasonal collections included in the bi-annual Paris haute-couture fashion shows.[7] In 2011, Kayrouz was selected by the prominent French ELLE Magazine as one of the "Emerging New Talents".[8] In 2012 he abandoned the appellation "couture" to focus on ready-to-wear.[9] In the same year, he created a capsule collection for La Redoute.

Krizia Robustella [Barcelona]

Krizia Robustella is a fashion company, self-defined as "Sport Deluxe”, which draws on sports garments in recent decades to create their own universe in which comfort merges with luxury. And luxury is transformed into shapes and fabrics hitherto relegated to the scale of the informal. Collection - BANANAS IS MY BUSINESS At KR they like the tropical groove a lot and to demonstrate this, their new Collection SS 2014 “BANANAS IS MY BUSINESS” is inspired by the eccentric and colorful Carmen Miranda. “I wonder why does everybody look at me and then begin to talk about a Christmas tree? I hope that means that everyone is glad to see the lady in the tutti-frutti hat. The gentlemen, they want to make me say, "Si, si," But I don't tell them that, I tell them, "Yes, sir-ee!" and maybe that is why they come for dates to me, the lady in the tutti-frutti hat. Some people say I dress too gay, but every day, I feel so gay; and when I'm gay, I dress that way, is something wrong with that? Americanos tell me that my hat is high, because I will not take it off to kiss a guy; but if I ever start to take it off, ay, ay! I do that once for Johnny Smith and he is very happy with the lady in the tutti-frutti hat!”

Panos Emporio [Stockholm]

Panos Emporio is Scandinavia’s leading designer label specialized in beachwear. It was founded in Sweden 1986 by fashion designer Mr. Panos Papadopoulos. The brand is characterized by innovation and distinct design that breathes style, quality and individuality. Panos Emporio combines simplicity and sophisticated clean lines with outstanding quality and fit. This has earned the brand an extremely loyal customer base with dedicated followers ranging from Hollywood stars and top celebrity models to world famous athletes and royalties. Panos Emporio is continuously perfecting the beachwear collection and is now expanding its universe with a vibrant clothing collection that uses 25 years of design philosophy to create a new level of high fashion. This year Panos Emporio also released an elegant and waterproof watch collection along with a fresh fragrance collection inspired by paradise.

FASHION FOLK S05 EP4 Natalie Tribouillard [CEO] Leonard [PARIS], Selim de Somavilla [Barcelona], Underground [Athens]

"Natalie Tribouillard [CEO] Leonard [PARIS]

It all began in 1958 when Jacques Leonard asked Daniel Tribouillard to start a new company: Leonard Fashion. A man of artistic temperament, Daniel Tribouillard set out to differentiate the brand in Haute Couture. In 1960, he launched a revolutionary new process for printing English weaves, that were very fashionable at the time but said to be “unprintable”. His clients were won over and the bold young man was applauded across the globe. In just a few years, encouraged by the success of his much-loved floral prints, Daniel Tribouillard brought the Leonard brand to the world. He developed his style by adopting the orchid as an emblem: a delicate wild flower “without geometric limits”. Indeed, Leonard's originality is founded on a unique and recognizable style shared by all of its designs - and also, the fabrics used. In 1968, Daniel Tribouillard presented his first collection of printed silk jersey dresses with a slogan emphasizing the lightness of the fabric: “The Leonard Dress: 150g of happiness”. In the early 70s, the House diversified its production (perfumes, ties, silk scarves…) and created its own distribution network. The years went by, innovations and inventions came one after the other and shaped the brands reputation. In 1994, the House of Leonard joined the French 'Féderation de la Couture' and performed its first fashion show at the Carrousel du Louvre.

Selim de Somavilla [Barcelona]

Born and bred and residing in Barcelona, Selim de Somavilla became a fashion-designer between here and London. In 2005 he graduated in Barcelona and went on to form a part of the team of Martin Lamothe over two collections. London offered him a new air, maturity and a fresh perspective for his future work dedicated to male fashion, studying at LCF and working at The Rodnik Band. The man that is dressed in his clothes knows no limitations. He is a man of refined tastes, who likes dressing well, with a certain melancholic air but without losing his virility despite the important unisex influence. De Somavilla places essential importance to a “total outfit idea” in his collections, for which he also designs bags, shoes and jewellery. At the beginning of 2012 he shows his collection called MAELSTRØM at the Fall-Winter ’12 edition of Valencia Fashion Week and Move Seville. In the September he showed “KNOCKOUT” in Barcelona, a collection for Spring-Summer ’13, during the Bosson Festival. He recently worked in conjunction with the ESCORPION brand working on handbags for the most recent 080 Barcelona Fashion.

Katerina Gouma [Athens]

Underground is an established label in the Greek market for more than 15 years. Underground has reinvented itself since 2005 as a creative fashion team -lead by Katerina Gouma, head designer and co-owner- by launching its own collections, available through retail and wholesale in Greece, as well as selected retail spots around the world. The basic creative principles include a preference for natural fabrics, an omnipresent yet widely modern reference to ancient Greece and the Goddess Dress, plus persistence on cuts that create a perfect fit on the body.

FASHION FOLK S05 EP5 Jean Paul Lespagnard [Brussels], Celia Vela [Barcelona], Jung Kuho [New York]

"Jean Paul Lespagnard [Brussels]

Jean-Paul Lespagnard is a fashion designer, costume designer for theatre and dance, visual artist and stylist for magazines. He combines a great sense of fashion with a fascination for high and low art and for popular culture in all its shapes and forms. Jean-Paul studied visual arts and fashion design in Liège (Belgium) and Luxembourg. He was a collaborator of Anna Sui (New York) for two collections and was an assistant to Annemie Verbeke (Brussels). He has created the costumes for several theatre and dance productions and is a regular collaborator of choreographer Meg Stuart / Damaged Goods (Brussels / Berlin). In 2008 Jean-Paul won two awards at the International Fashion Festival in Hyères (France), which led to the creation of a capsule collection for the French brand 123. He recently founded his own brand, Jean-Paul Lespagnard, and presents his first women's ready-to-wear collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2011. All Jean-Paul’s creations reveal an overflowing imagination and he eloquently succeeds in communicating his optimistic universe where originality and offbeat style go hand in hand with a playful irreverence for convention and the generally accepted. Jean-Paul Lespagnard wants to offer luxury, not material luxury but the real thing: the freedom to be who you want to be.

Celia Vela [Barcelona]

She has shown at Barcelona’s Gaudí catwalk in 1996, 1997 and 1998. Since 1999 she has shown individually at different locations in Barcelona. Since 1998 she has had her own shop in Figueres. In 2003 the Figueres shop was extended to include a new space especially for brides. She featured at the Spain Fashion Fairs at Tokyo and Osaka of 1998 and 1999. From January 2000 she has participated at the international Fashion Fair in Tokyo. In February 2000 www.celiavela.com went online. From 2001 until 2006 she participated at the Cibeles-SIMM space. In 2003 and 2004 she unveiled her collections at the Atmosphère room in Paris. In 2005 she reached an agreement with the luxury brand “Agua de Sevilla” (water of Seville) to both design and produce an exclusive line for women labelled “Celia Vela for Agua de Sevilla”. Since October 2005 she has held an exhibition entitled “Celia Vela – 10 years, 10 fashion looks” at Figueres Museum with the 10th anniversary of the brand. In 2007 she was a part of Bread & Butter Barcelona. She has had a permanent showroom in Tokyo since 2009. Since 2010 she has featured at Barcelona’s 080 show. She regularly participates at conferences about design and fashion and has done so since 1998.

Hexa by Kuho [PARIS]

Jung Kuho is a Korean fashion designer based in Seoul. A graduate of Parson’s School of Design, Jung is also a certified Cordon Bleu chef (he once owned a restaurant near NYU) as well as the Creative Director of Samsung’s fashion division, where he oversees several sold-in-Asia-only women’s collections as well as Samsung’s license brands Nina Ricci and 10 Corso Como.

 

FASHION FOLK S05 EP6 Valentin Yudashkin [Moscow], Justicia Ruano [Barcelona], Marc Stone [Zurich]

"Valentin Yudashkin [Moscow]

He was born on October 14, 1964 in Bakovka community, Odintsovo District, Moscow Region. In 1986 he graduated from the Moscow Industrial College with honours, having upheld two degree works at the same time: “History of the costume” and “Makeup and decorative cosmetics”. In 1987 he created his first collection, consisting of 150 models. In 1991 his collection was brought to Paris and made an immense impression upon the experienced French public. Since that time his new collections have been traditionally shown in Paris. In 1997 the boutique “Valentin Yudashkin” was opened in Moscow, in Kutuzovsky avenue, and in 1999 the jewellery and perfume series “Valentin Yudashkin” was launched at the Fashion House “Valentin Yudashkin”. This was a joint project with the French company “Parour”. The models of Valentin Yudashkin are kept at the Louvre Museum of Costume, at the Californian Fashion Museum, at the Moscow State Museum of History and at the International Museum of the Olympic Games. He is honoured worker of arts of the RF, full member of the Academy of Social Sciences, honorary academician of the Russian Academy of Arts, a corresponding member of the Paris Syndicate of High Fashion and Ready-Made Clothes.

Justicia Ruano [Barcelona]

Following a solid upward trajectory in the world of design, creating and being responsible for the artistic direction of different brands, in 2009 she decides to go it alone with the launching of her very own collection. Her passion for fashion, women, femininity and her fascination for materials and shapes, have driven her to create a perfect collection for the woman of today. Purified designs of sleek lines - and richly ornamented - which lead us to dream of the elegance of bygone eras. From her studio in Barcelona and showroom in London, the collections from Justicia Ruano seduce the women of today and the most demanding buyers.

Marc Stone [Zurich]

Marc Stone has developed his clothing brand as a holistic concept influenced by contemporary art, journeys, music, theatre and film. Marc Stone combines classic, modern style with subtle futuristic touches. The effortless minimalist spirit of each collection comes from working quality and hi-tech fabrics. Colours are subtle, and dictated by the feel of the season. The story of MARC STONE started in Zürich in the multicultural district circle four. As a progressive fashion brand MARC STONE stands for minimalist design, which boasts clean lines and innovative looks. The brand sells its products in a variety of international showrooms (Paris, Milan, Berlin, Seoul, Singapore and New York) and at numerous international trade shows.

 

 

FASHION FOLK S05 EP7 Dawid Tomaszewski [Berlin] , Yerse [Barcelona] ,Glaw [Berlin]

"Dawid Tomaszewski [Berlin]

Dawid Tomaszewski, born on November 21, 1980 in Gdansk, Poland, in is an art fashion designer currently dividing his time between London, United Kingdom and Berlin, Germany. His style is a merging of extravagance, appreciation of detail. Tomaszewski studied at London College of Fashion and Akademie der Künste Berlin. He also studied history of art at University of Fine Arts in Poznan. In 2008 he took part in a TV show the next fashion talent and was selected to design a bag for Design Hotels. In the same year he designed a charity t-shirt for Hallhuber. 2008 was the year, when he commenced artistic collaboration with artist and photographer Michal Martychowiec. The following year brought the Designer for tomorrow competition, where he got into the final. At the end of 2008 he launched a label under his own name. He was awarded with Young designer award [1] in January 2010. Additionally he exhibited at the Premium exhibition in Berlin. That collection brought him several publications in Vogue, Elle, Vanity Fair, and other magazines. The Spring/Summer 2011 collection Torqued Elipses,[2][3] inspired by renown artist Richard Serra brought a great deal of interest toward his label.[4] It was presented at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and Fashion Week Poland in Lódz. By the end of this season he intends to launch a second line called Dawid Tomaszewski Studio that is going to be more casual. By now he constantly presents his collections at the fashion shows like Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Generó i Domènech , Yerse [Barcelona]

Yerse was founded by Lluís Generó i Domènech in 1964 in Sabadell and was the leading knitwear brand for many years. Forty years later, Yerse undergoes a major transformation towards the achievement of some very ambitious business objectives and in order to do so, has adapted to the new times, following a strategy of business diversification based on design and innovation. Today our collection are sold through over 1 200 points of sale in Spain and the rest of Europe. We distribute through multi-brand stores, two stores of our own and brand spaces in department stores like El Corte Inglés. We put out two seasonal collections, two capsule collections (Super Summer and Special Edition) plus a collection of accessories.

Glaw [Berlin]

Urban elegance with a slight touch of psychedelic femininity and refreshing cuts are the basis of the Berlin based fashion label GLAW. Nostalgic elements of times gone by reflect the diverse artistic sources of inspiration of founders Jesko Wilke and Maria Poweleit who got to know each other at the fashion school ESMOD in Berlin. After having graduated in 2011 both decided to join their creative forces to create the high-end fashion label Glaw which portrays their vision of 21st century women’s clothing honing in on a cross between female power and fragileness.

FASHION FOLK S05 Ep08 Kilian Kerner [Berlin], Laura Figueras SUR, Valavanis Laskaris

"Kilian Kerner [Berlin]

For the eleventh consecutive year KILIAN KERNER is in July 2013 with a show represented at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. After the anniversary show in January, the label continues to focus on the fashion location in the capital city and is at the same time new ways: "One feels that the label takes on a new dimension. I am very pleased to present a refined look KILIAN KERNER in Berlin in July and am also looking forward to the debut in London, "said Kilian Kerner about the upcoming season. "DO NOT LISTEN TO WITH DREAMS" is the appropriate title for the new collection. "The collection is set in a world in which anything can happen and may happen happened. It comes to free himself of all constraints and conventions, "says the designer the basic idea behind the designs. Make simple cuts on patchwork, patterns and prints are combined unconventional. The focus of the design is the bold play with colors and shapes. The inspiration of the dream world is also reflected in the show concept. For the catwalk in Berlin, the paint manufacturer Diessner developed a coating with colors of the Italian brand VALPAINT that is applied by hand and can give the impression of a sky. The project "fashion and music" sets Kilian Kerner again with the Singer and songwriter Mads Langer order. The Danish singer will accompany the models on the catwalk as a live act and play four songs from his upcoming album "In synthesis waters". For the show KILIAN KERNER is supported by Grundig in the third season. As a new partner Kilian Kerner also the company Blackberry win, for which he also serves as a promotional ambassador immediately. Following the success of previous seasons and KILIAN KERNER store openings in the UK, in February this year, the label still directed from internationally. After the kick-off show in Berlin and exhibitions on leading European fashion fairs, KILIAN KERNER presented in September 2013 for the first time at London Fashion Week.

Laura Figueras - SUR [Barcelona]

Barcelona-born Laura Figueras launched her first brand, Bambi by Laura in 2003. The brand quickly became a staple feature in discerning boutiques across the world, from Tokyo to Paris, London and New York. Numerous collaborations followed, with Topshop, Roxy Heart, CocaCola Light among others. In 2009 she moved to London, and in 2012 began work on a long-term passion, the creation of a new kind of luxury label, Sur. The brand is distinguished by an uncompromising approach to quality and provenance. As such, fabrics are sourced in the UK, Spain and Italy and manufacture takes place in traditional ateliers in and around Barcelona. Since its debut in 2012 the brand has received critical acclaim for its elegant wearable and sophisticated looks.

Valavanis Laskaris [ATHENS]

Born on the North eastern Aegean island of Samothraki, Laskaris moved to Athens, to pursue his dream of becoming a couturier. After graduating from College, eager to learn all the secrets of his craft, he started working as an apprentice with Greece's top couturiers and gradually developed his skills as a designer while at the same time perfecting his exceptional eye and gift for intricate embroidery - which remains an important part of his designs to this day. The essence of Laskaris's style combines the timeless elegance of haute couture with an acute awareness of contemporary fashion trends. Laskaris believes that "a good couturier is a bit like a plastic surgeon: creating waists where there are none, removing inches from where they should not be, investing brides with a figure they did not know they possess!"

FASHION FOLK S05 EP9 Arrey Kono [Berlin], Xavier Zazo and Clara Brull [Barcelona], AF Vandervost [Antwerp]

"Arrey Kono [Berlin]

As an artist, Arrey Kono is a remarkable shooting star and has an excellent reputation in the international world of fashion. Her fashion is sold in more than 35 countries worldwide. Her brand is a permanent fixture at the KaDeWe in Berlin and the Oberpollinger in Munich since October 2012. Her brand embodies instinct and passion, her fashion is artful, young and sexy.

Xavier Zazo and Clara Brull [Barcelona]

Xavier Zazo and Clara Brull are the designers behind the avant-garde Catalan female fashion firm zazo&brull. Their professional career has seen them participate at fairs such as Bread&Butter, Rendez-vous in Paris, Modefabriek in Amsterdam and MQ in Vienna. Their collections have also been on display on the catwalk at 080 Barcelona Fashion and the Valencia Fashion Week, and they have been invited to participate at the Barcelona bridal show Pasarela Gaudí, at the Bolivia Moda fashion-event in Santa Cruz and the SUL Fashion Week in Brazil. At the third international "El Botón -Mango Fashion Awards”, zazo&brull were chosen as one of the ten finalists as the only Spanish representatives.

AF Vandervost [Antwerp]

Belgian husband-wife team An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx launched their first collection in Paris in 1998 after graduating from the Fashion School of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. They launched a shoe collection in 2003 and naturally segued into a lingerie line three years later. The pair is known for their deft contrasts in fabrics, textures, and colors, often layering silky lingerie-inspired pieces with tailored jackets, reworked white cotton button-downs, or dramatic capes.

 

FASHION FOLK S05 EP10 Dimitri [Berlin] Guillermina Baeza [Barcelona] Stephane Hahn [PARIS]

"Dimitri [Berlin]

The 35-year-old designer, whose full name is Dimitrios Panagiotopoulos, trained at the well-known ESMOD fashion design school before going on to earn a master’s degree in Fashion Design at the ISTITUTO MARANGONI in Milan. The son of a Greek father and an Italian mother, displayed an affinity for fashion even as a child. He has been fascinated by it ever since, and worked for such renowned designers as Jil Sander, Hugo Boss and Vivienne Westwood before starting out on his own in 2007.DIMITRI stands for quality, accuracy and personality. A passion for music, harmony between accurate tailoring and styling as well as slim feminine silhouettes with a certain something defines his design. Dimitrios designs clothes for women with self-confidence; women of all types and personalities – strong women with a clear sense of personal style. The line between extreme opposites, such as soft/hard or innocent/corrupt, is what makes DIMITRI so exciting, and reflects the vibrant strength of Italian elegance.

Guillermina Baeza [Barcelona]

The designer Guillermina Baeza was born in the Spanish protectorate of Morocco. In the 60s she moved to Barcelona and the in the 70’s started her professional career that took her in the 80’s to exhibit at major European fashion shows. Her continued presence on the catwalks has created a unique style, that underscores the tenet of the Guillermina Baeza philosophy: "Swimwear and lingerie are not mere accessories. Today they are as important as outer garments." The great merit of Guillermina Baeza has always been to adapt to the needs of the market, thanks to her intuition, covering different segments of the same in terms of styles, tastes and ages. Currently, the designer’s daughter, Belén Larruy, also works with her, directing the creative team.

Stephane Hahn [PARIS]

22/4 is based upon the idea of redrawing the parameters that define and divide men’s and women’s fashion. The basic mathematical equation 2+2=4 in an industry where exacting measurements and technical proportions form the foundation indicates 22/4’s high quality demand the brand has. The label’s discreetly luxurious gender-liberalized style is the principle and base of each collection and always based on reinterpreted traditional masculine tailoring techniques. It is a distillation of the classical men’s wear style that characterize 22/4’s identity. Superior Italian fabrics meet pioneering construction imbued with a reverence for age-old skills drawn primarily from the world of men’s tailoring. The desire to create clothes and being driven by an attention for details with an eye for craft, quality and modern luxury are the engine of the creative director, Stephanie Hahn. After gaining valuable experience working in Berlin Stephanie Hahn decided to launch her own label in Düsseldorf. There she is working with a core of high skilled staff to create 22/4’s hand-tailored, precise crafted clothes.

 

FASHION FOLK S05 EP11 Satu Maaranen [Helsinki], Natalie Capell [Barcelona], Schumacher

"Satu Maaranen [Helsinki]

Finnish designer Satu Maaranen competed against nine other designers in the South of France, to be crowned winner of the 2013 Hyères Festival for Fashion and Photography. Her winning collection, entitled Garment Landscape, is a bold display of colour and extreme structured shapes. Inspired by the Land Art movement and 1960s haute couture, Garment Landscape is a collection of contrasts, where nature meets innovative fashion design. Satu's experimental use of colour and dimension, is what makes her sculptural tailoring and distinctive creative vision, a truly winning enterprise.

Natalie Capell [Barcelona]

Since the creation of her first dress at age 14, Natalie Capell has been dedicated to creating exceptional women’s clothing as a means of expression. She returned to her Catalan roots after graduating from Shenkar College of Design in Tel Aviv and established her brand in Barcelona in 2002. The brand embodies gentleness and strength at the same time, comfort and elegance, a reflection of the way of life of today's woman. Along with her studio team, she is dedicated to developing clothes that offer an alternative interpretation of modern femininity. After years of experience and research, gem-like pieces are created, noted for their interplay of transparencies and manual embroidery work. The boutique is an intimate space which hides a workshop round back, reminiscent of turn of the century ateliers in Paris. It is a place hidden in an alley of the old city, whose secret is spread by word of mouth since more than a decade ago…

Dorothee Schumacher [Berlin]

Dorothee Schumacher combines artisan couture with a modern lifestyle, which strongly expressed also in this collection: elegant clothes suitable for everyday met extraordinary detail and high quality materials. To design "favorite pieces" for the most sophisticated wardrobes in the world, is the passionate desire of the designer. And she has succeeded with this collection for sure! All that remains is to wait until the collection will be represented in more than 600 international fashion houses in over 40 countries.

2006, Schumacher was on the costumes for the Hollywood movie The Devil Wears Prada where Anne Hathaway and Meryl Streep were equipped accordingly.

 

FASHION FOLK S05 EP12 Ángel Vilda, Brain&Beast [Barcelona], Vanessa Bruno [PARIS], Riani [Berlin]

"Ángel Vilda, Brain&Beast [Barcelona]

Brain&Beast was born in 2010; Founded by Ángel Vilda, who previously managed his own brand, César Olivar, with an extensive background in costume design, and Verónica Raposo, designer and former student of Ángel and César, who both held teaching positions in fashion design. This collection reflects on games, riddles, hieroglyphics of apparent structural simplicity, that respond to complex geometrical equations in which color and materials form parts of codes where nothing is random. Brain&Beast is presenting garments that combine emotion and reason, with a strong influence of contemporary culture, as well as a large dose of sophistication and a sense of humor.

Vanessa Bruno [PARIS]

Vanessa Bruno was introduced to the fashion industry at an early age. The daughter of a Danish supermodel and founder of French fashion house Emmanuelle Khan, Bruno was surrounded by the industry. By 15 she was followed in her mothers footsteps modelling and began to lend her talents to singing and acting. Familiar with photo shoots and runways, Bruno sought work else where and turned her attention to fashion design. Enriching herself with clothing and couture, she decided to focus herself fully on designing. Bruno developed her skills working for Dorothée Bis and later on, Michael Klein. With her talent growing by 1992 Bruno had launched her own label. Creating a simple yet sophisticated look, her clothes offered a bohemian, modern style. Three years later Bruno went on to launch Athé, a complimentary line to Vanessa Bruno and by 1998 she opened her first boutique in Paris. Bruno embarked on several collaborations with designer and filmmaker Stephanie Di Giusto, designing clothes for short films, including “A Visual Poetry”, starring Kate Bosworth, the face of Vanessa Bruno since 2012. A favourite with fashion conscious celebrities, Bruno’s clothes are effortless and romantic. Fresh and elegant, Bruno’s famous Lune bag became a must have item, along with her Strass carrying bag.

Riani [Berlin]

RIANI is Italian lightness paired with German high class workmanship. We work entirely with premium, noble and some exclusively made materials. Thereby the perfect cut has a specific meaning - after all, a garment from RIANI should not only look fabulous on hanger, but also on the wearer. But we do even more. With love and accuracy we pay attention to consistently surprising details, as we are aware that our customers are fond of this. RIANI is fashion which reveals its own emphasized personality and not only pretends to be a personality. RIANI is fashion which always dresses you optimal. At a brunch with friends, at a meeting with business associates or at a candle light dinner with your beloved. Sometimes it is not so easy to discover a woman’s character. After all, there are lots of very different facets. This is not different at RIANI. RIANI is elitist, but not narrow minded. Traditional, but not conservative. Glamorous, but not trashy. You have to experience it by yourself, and only after that you will realize: Jürgen Buckenmaier lays the cornerstone for the RIANI success story in his home town of Schorndorf with his so-called “Bucki” trousers. Bucki trousers become a huge hit, with over 100,000 pairs being sold. Martine Cruse brings in a wealth of experience in fashion management. She is appointed second Managing Director of RIANI GmbH alongside Jürgen Buckenmaier. Ulrich Schulte becomes the new Head Designer at RIANI. Alongside him, there are five more designers involved in creating new and inspiring collections.

FASHION FOLK S05 EP13 Alexis Reyna [Barcelona], Anne-Valerie Hash [PARIS], Athina Korda [ATHENS]

Alexis Reyna [Barcelona]

Barcelona born, Alexis Reyna has been enormously influenced by the artistic professions of his parents. This, along with his discovery of the erotic film Emmanuelle was to bring about the flourishing of his love for art. This interest never waned during his time as a student at the French Lycée in Barcelona, nor during his stay in Paris where he composed several poems and musical pieces. In 1995, he began studying Economics at Barcelona University, it was during this time that a lover 20 years older than him allowed him to discover the world of fashion. Following a self-taught training period, he had the chance to work for Stylemode in Barcelona as well as for other brands as a designer. Very soon he created his first collections and worked alongside J. Lindeberg, Filippa K and later with M.I.A. After an untypically rich stint, he studied an MA at Central Saint Martins and worked in Asia for three years. Winner of the Fall/Winter 2012 Best Collection at Barcelona Fashion Week. Alexis Reyna has established himself in Barcelona from 2008 onwards. His latest collection, ‘The Country Code’, unveiled at the last Barcelona Fashion Week in January can be found at TOTEM, an international agency based in Paris.

Anne-Valerie Hash [PARIS]

Hash graduated from the chambre Syndicale dela Couture Parisienne in 1992. Design gigs at Nina Ricci, Chloé, and Chanel followed, and in 1995, Hash began a small bridal business. Five years later, she connected with Phillippe Elkoubi, now her businesspartner, and launched a signature collection of handmade and ready-to-wear pieces, inspired by her whimsical muse: 14-year-old Parisian, Lou Liza Lesage. In 2001, Anne Valerie Hash presented her first ready-to-wear collection on the Paris couture circuit, where she continues to show. Her quirky, deconstructed looks – a dress crafted out of tailored men’s trousers, in particular – generated considerable buzz. But instead of pushing for megabrand status, Hash has kept her operation relatively small scale. Still, her masculine-feminin a esthetic – that’s gonemore girlies as of late – has cultivated a loyal following globally. Andin spring 2007, Bergdorf Goodman was the first to snyp up Hash’s new handbag line of buttery soft satchels trimmed with temininetrills.

Athina Korda [Athens]

The style , inspired by the music and the absolute geometric shapes , determined and characterized by strict lines and dark color tones . Daring and experimenting with different materials , often contradictory , shaping them so that creates emphasis on various pieces of the garment , regenerate body parts. The main design goal is to shape garments which can be redefined according to the woman who wears them and also to flatter the female body .

FASHION FOLK S05 EP14 Juan Pedro Lopez [Barcelona], Andrea Karg, Allude [Munich], Anne Gorke [Berlin]

"Juan Pedro Lopez [Barcelona]

Juan Pedro López (Barcelona), graduated in design in 2000. In 1999 he wins first prize at the Smirnoff Fashion Awards Spain and is a finalist at their international final in Hong Kong. In 2002, he is a finalist at the Mittelmoda Fashion Award, Italy. Since 2000 he has unveiled six collections at the Gaudí Young Designers Show, until 2005, the year in which López made his Paris debut and on top of that, is invited to the Almaty Fashion Week in Kazakstan. Present for the second time at the Paris Fashion-Show in March 2006, he returns to the Barcelona stage. Invited to the first edition of 080 Barcelona, since 2007 he has combined his work as a designer along with that of a stylist.

Allude [Munich]

Andrea Karg is a native from Dusseldorf, now resident in Munich. Andrea spent her students years working as a model while she completed her law degree. At the early stage in her career, she collected innumerable experiences as part of the fashion industry, working in Europe`s fashion capitals. In 1993, she left legal affairs behind, and invested in her passion for fashion, with the launch of a self-designed cashmere knitwear collection branded ALLUDE.

Anne Gorke [Berlin]

ANNE GORKE originated in Weimar, the place where the Bauhaus was founded. The Bauhaus spirit and creative energy is still alive in a young design scene today and comes across in ANNE GORKE’s designs that show both, a well self-assured functionality and an elegant femininity. Architectural, silhouette-oriented cuts are a distinctive characteristic of ANNE GORKE’s designs. ANNE GORKE works exclusively with organic textiles of the best caliber. The production is designed in Germany, which not only ensures fair conditions, but also meets the highest standard of quality and craftsmanship. ANNE GORKE works closely with local workshops and craft businesses and uses exclusively organic textiles and fairly produced materials. An increasing number of customers are able to live happily, safe in the knowledge that they are making their own contribution towards sustainable awareness. This is why it is ANNE GORKE’s credo, to give customers the chance to fulfil this need without having to compromise on style, quality and aesthetics.

FASHION FOLK S05 EP15 Carmen Emanuela Popa[Bucharest], Josep Abril [Barcelona], Diane Pernet [Manish Arora Film]

"Carmen Emanuela Popa [Bucharest]

"What inspires me… Drama of this world with all it entails, wars, famine, poverty .. in contrast to the “blessed” world with peace and joy of living, as I tried to juxtapose two complementary worlds in my last collection for the last season SS 2013 “Contemporary Unknown Soldier”. On the one hand the coat of unknown soldier, hero of a real war or of every day wars, as each of us … and peace offered by the image of a ballerina tutu, including the idea of innocence that actually soldier wears with him everywhere .. Sometimes, in the morning .. when I come back to the reality of this world .. I simply see these images! .. divine characters that basically talk about ourselves..."

Josep Abril [Barcelona]

Born in Barcelona in 1962. He studies Fine Art. He studies Design and Fashion at the “Escola d’Arts i Tècniques de la Moda” (EATM) in Barcelona. He lives and works in Barcelona. He creates his own firm in 1996. JOSEP ABRIL is a collection for men. It is currently commercially available via showrooms and multi-brand outlets. He unveils his catwalk shows in Madrid and Barcelona from 2003 to 2009. He has been Creative Director for the “ARMAND BASI ONE HOME” collection, presented in Paris since 2007. In 2006 his “BESPOKE” project for made-to-measure tailoring sees the light of day. In 2007 he forms ABRIL STUDIO, a studio for creating fashion CONCEPTS and PROJECTS. He launches the line “UNIFORMED BY” of design uniformity. He creates the costumes for shows, theater and opera. He gives classes and workshops at different Design Schools: I.E.D., ESDI, ELISAVA and FELICIDAD DUCE. He operates as an external consultant and Art Director. In 1991 he wins the first GAUDÍ Prize for new designers. In 2004 he receives the GQ Award for best designer for men in the country. In 2008 he receives the “Barcelona es Moda” (Barcelona is fashion) accolade for the best professional.

"MANISH ARORA DIANE PERNET [PARIS]

"HOLI HOLY - A FILM BY MANISH ARORA" BY BHARAT SIKKA from Diane Pernet's ASVOFF PRO 1 month ago not yet rated DIRECTOR: BHARAT SIKKA / CONCEPT: MANISH ARORA / COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: INDIA / DURATION: 5'00" / DESIGNER: MANISH ARORA / MUSIC: BISHI BATTACHARYA / CAST: BISHI BHATTACHARYA / DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY: TASSADUQ HUSSAIN / ARTISTIC DIRECTOR: MANISH ARORA AND BHARAT SIKKA / STYLIST: MANISH ARORA

FASHION FOLK S05 EP16 Konstantinos Mitrovgenis [ATHENS] Albéniz Zúñiga [Barcelona] Umasan [Berlin]

"Konstantinos Mitrovgenis [Athens]

"Konstantinos Mitrovgenis was born in Athens. He studied fashion design at Zer-Fam School. He has showcased four times in AXDW. At 10th AXDW, he participated in the competition of «New Designers Awards» and he won the awards of «Best New Designer» and «Best Catwalk». As the winner of the first award «Best New Designer», he had the opportunity to participate in the organization «Bridge of Fashion» in Germany where he represented Greece among other fashion designers from 11 different countries. His style is different, modern and unique. He is a pioneer by creating lighted 3D structures, dresses with animations like the dress with the 800 eyes that blink, modular clothes like the bag that turns into a blouse and dress pants made into a coat.

Albéniz Zúñiga [Barcelona]

Maite Albéniz Zúñiga born on September 4, 1990 in Vitoria-Gasteiz moved to Barcelona at 19 to train as a fashion designer at Felicidad Duce School, from which she graduated this year. During the course, she made ??different bespoke garments for private clients and, after completing her final Project at the end of her studies, in which she had already decided on men’s fashion, she opted to found her own brand, Albéniz. Albéniz, is the vision of the man of your dreams and it is he who, in this first staging, debuts. Her style is characterized by delicacy and pulchritude in the selection of fabrics and trimmings, causing both garments and accessories to flaunt both a glam and eccentric soul. COLLECTION - ANGEL Angel, is a men's collection for spring / summer 2014. My inspiration comes from singer Ray Charles, who, in his concerts, sported tailored suits made of bold and innovative fabrics. This is the main concept I develop in the collection. Start with a sober pattern and make it out of striking and exquisite fabrics. Regarding the line, I took Mick Jagger as a reference, creating a slim clean vertical silhouette. The color scheme is pastel greens, blues, pinks and yellows along with whites and golds, creating a lucid, attractive and fresh image. The gold thread embroidery inspired by matador costumes together with Swarovskis makes for a daring and sophisticated style. The sumptuous fabrics and trimmings create a unique style fusing different textures and completing the final impression than could be that of a Rock star.

Umasan [Berlin]

Anja and Sandra Umann are identical twins who are identically fascinated with the world of art, literature, eastern philosophy, traditional yoga and a higher consciousness. While Anja Umann went on to study Fashion Design to become a designer in the high end avant-garde world of fashion, working successfully for Strenesse, Wunderkind and most impressively Yohji Yamamoto in Paris and Tokyo – Sandra Umann decided to follow her passion for visual Art and Media and became a well known photographer (published in Vogue, Gala, Bunte and many more) working as an artistic/creative director for many forward thinking global projects. The brand UMASAN is much more than fashion, it is their world, dedicated towards all things esthetic, sustainable, vegan and mindful. “Our demand and at the same time our motivation was to create something new which goes far beyond the production of clothing and establishment of a fashion brand. As innovation in the fashion industry also means to correct luxury mistakes, to re-define collective values and to increase individual values. This was reason enough for us to found UMASAN in 2010.“

 

FASHION FOLK Series 4 [16x26min episodes]

Fashion Folk S04 ep1 Steven Tai , Barbara i Gongini & Jean-Pierre Braganza

"STEVEN TAI

Canadian designer Steven Tai is a 2011 graduate of Central Saint Martins. He has worked at companies such as Bless, Viktor & Rolf and Stella McCartney. In 2012 he was invited to Hyeres where he won the prestigious Chloe prize. His work has already been featured in Vogue, Elle, Dazed and Confused and websites including We Are The Market and This is Paper. He draws inspiration from the mundane aspects of daily life that, in large urban cities are frequently overlooked.

BARBARA í GONGINI

A Faroese brand based in Denmark. The aim of the company is to create Nordic clothing based on a conceptual approach to the process, where experiments with forms provide the setting for the visual motive in the design. Barbara í Gongini creates clothing, which is at the leading edge of the trade. Barbara í Gongini furthermore participates very actively in the artistic debate in the Nordic countries. During the work, interdisciplinary co-operation with other artists within music, photography, film, etc, is emphasised and this co-operation nourishes inspiration during the design process itself.

Jean Pierre Braganza

Born in Canada. Having graduated from Central Saint Martins, Jean-Pierre worked with Roland Mouret before setting up his own label. SIGNATURES: “Constructed tailoring." IDEAL CLIENT: “Strong and confident with good taste. She’s not afraid to embrace the dark side of life.”

 

Fashion Folk S02 ep2 Shiatzy Chen, Odeur & Eleni Kyriacou

"Shiatzy Chen

Shiatzy Chen is a Taiwanese fashion house, whose founder and brand innovator Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia is often referred to as the Chanel of Taiwan,and is the eponym of her luxury goods brand.. She was born in 1951 in Changhua, Taiwan and founded the company in 1978. The brand spirit for Shiatzy Chen is "neo-Chinese chic", which transfers historical Chinese aesthetics into modern fashion design. Shiatzy adopts Chinese aesthetics in combination with western cuttings and Chinese handcrafting techniques.The brand is known for its distinctive design features drawn from Chinese culture such as qipao collars, knot buckles, or patterns in a Chinese ink painting.

Eleni Kyriacou

Eleni Kyriacou is a London based womenswear fashion and textiles designer. Eleni launched her brand in October 2011 with her red carpet collection Women as Treasure. She studied textile design at Central Saint Martins where she won an MA prize for best design for sustainability. Her BSc was in architecture at The Bartlett, UCL. She apprenticed for the late Alexander Mcqueen in menswear and accessories for womenswear and for Emilio de la Morena, before taking the step to launch her own label.

Odeur

Odeur was founded in Stockholm in 2006 as a brand experiment, using a spec white, light and clean scent instead of a visual logotype to label the graphic and dramatic, yet playful garments. The 1rst collection included a few t-shirt styles that where distributed amongst a few initial clients in Sweden and Japan. Today Odeur is designed by Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger and has spread to 17 countries, selling jeans, outerwear, accessories and fashion clothing. The collection is represented at, amongst others, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Temporary Showroom in Berlin, Oki-Ni in London and OAK NYC in New York."

Fashion Folk S04 ep3 Jersper Hovring, Isabel Marant & Makis Tselios

"Jesper Høvring

Supreme dressmaker Jesper Høvring creates dresses and gowns for some of the most prominent customers in Denmark. With a background as a costumier in theatre, Høvring is now the main purveyor of ladies' formalwear in Denmark, creating some of the most elaborate numbers on the Scandinavian fashion scene.

Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant is a French fashion designer known for her bohemian aesthetic and fervently coveted creations. Embodying a casual, perfectly tousled but never over-thought look, her clothes are worn by some of the world's most fashionable stars including Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Kate Bosworth, Rachel Weisz and Alexa Chung.

Makis Tselios

 Makis Tselios is not just a fashion designer, but is a true artist from the legendary Ionian Islands. He was born on the island of Ithaki. At the age of seven his family moved to the mainland seaport of Piraeus where he grew up. He has created his own history through his innovative designs and unprecedented fashion shows which, for the first time in Greece, featured international models. Some of the more important achievements of the firm were the designing of uniforms for Olympic Airlines in 1980, a collaboration with Neiman-Marcus in 1983, and the designing of the women's uniforms for the Greek Olympic teams for the 1984 Games in Los Angeles."

FASHION FOLK S04 ep4 Celebrity Skin, Corrie Nielsen & Asger Juel Larson

"Celebrity Skin

Celebrity Skin are a dynamic, avant garde designer duo. Head designer Dimitris Strepkos and his assistant Eleni Mparla showed their first collection in April 2009. Tim Burton's Impossible Nightmare collection won 2 awards. Best Designer - Best Catwalk

Corrie Nielsen

Corrie was born in Florida and moved to London in 2000. Corrie studied at Central Saint Martins. From 2000-2006 she worked for Vivienne Westwood. She won Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden in 2010. SIGNATURES: “The daywear has a witty take on traditional men’s tailoring. Our bespoke eveningwear makes a truly original statement for gala events.” IDEAL CLIENT: “She has a strong sense of style and is comfortable and confident in her own identity. She expects quality, craftsmanship and custom in her everyday wear.” TRADEMARK PIECE: “The bias-cut knot tie shirt.”

Asger Juel Larsen

Asger Juel Larsen is a designer that marks and merits the adventurous and rule breaking reinvention of modern menswear. Hailing from Denmark but truely establishing his art in the UK, Asger graduated 'top of the class' at the London College of Fashion in 2009 with a BA Menswear Degree, Asger has since then conquered the masters at the same institution. His aesthetics have been consistently evolving during the academic time frame, illustrating ambition and flare in the imagination. And with placements alongside John Richmond and Burberry Prorsum included in the tapestry of his background, the platform and landscape for Asger's future collections is bright. His designs are an intoxicating medley of the past and future, taking inspiration from historical events and fusing it into a futuristic sci-fi sphere. The clash of textures play with ideas of masculine strength and vulnerability. Asger's aesthetics are both industrial and romantic, taking the gothic and androgynous to new levels of sophistication and depth."

 

 

FASHION FOLK S04 ep5 JC Castelbajac, Stine Goya & Miltos

"Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, also known as JC/DC,[1] born 28 November 1949 in Casablanca, Morocco, is a fashion designer. As the Marquis de Castelbajac, he is a French nobleman.[2] He has enjoyed international success with some of his creations, including a coat of teddy bears worn by pop star Madonna[3] and by supermodel Helena Christensen in the film Prêt-à-Porter. Recently JC de Castelbajac has befriended artists such as M.I.A, Cassette Playa, Curry & Coco and The Coconut Twins. His fashion archive was showcased in preparation for his retrospective "Gallie Rock" in Paris by photographers Tim and Barry, modelled by Cassette Playa, M.I.A., Jammer, Matthew Stone, Slew Dem Crew and more.[4] As well as his imaginative clothing collections[1][2] the designer creates home furnishings [3]and has designed a watch inspired by the childhood favourite, Lego. In 1979, de Castelbajac married fashion journalist and model Katherine Lee Chambers. They had two sons before divorcing, among them Louis-Marie de Castelbajac. The designer is currently engaged to actress Mareva Galanter. Jean-Charles is currently working with American singer Lady Gaga for the fashion for her next music video.[5]

Stine Goya,

Stine Goya, founded by the designer of the same name, in Copenhagen 2006. Goya introduces her seasonal collections by setting a mood through her use of vibrant colour, print and sculptural shaped pieces. Creating beautiful garments and accessories Goya combines these features to create wearable styles that adhere to people who seek authenticity and individuality in the everyday. After graduating from Central st. Martins in 2005 with a degree in fashion and print, and working as fashion editor at Danish fashion magazine Cover, her debut collection, 'Confetti' was presented and very successfully received at Copenhagen fashion week February 2007. With an agenda to influence the direction of Scandinavian design Stine Goya has experienced widespread acclaim in the industry for her particular use of colour, print and for creating silhouettes that compliment the female form. Since starting her own label Stine Goya has continuedNoa Noa continuously make a great effort to make things last. This goes for the collections, the employees, the shop fittings - everything.

Miltos

Born in Athens, Miltos' first contact with fashion was as a production and sales manager in a well-known company with silk garments. His experience in raw materials together with his love for high quality resulted in starting up his own studio, while studying fashion at Veloudakis Fashion School. Feminine lines, all time classic elegance, fresh style with high class, would be a close description to his work. Miltos currently works at his studio in Kolonaki, where he creates pret-a-porter and haute couture collections, as well as unique bridals."

 

FASHION FOLK S04 ep6 Henrik Vibskov, Azzaro & 22

"Henrik Vibskov

Words by Didder Rønlund I fell head over heels for all Henrik Vibskov's quirks and curious ideas - indeed, for the entire energy and atmosphere of the collection, inside Carlsberg's large bottling hall. And yet again, I fell for the man himself, and his stone face as he shuffled in, and took his bow. That is, what it is called, when the designers enter the podium, after the finale, and receive their applause. I saw men in many kinds of trousers and even more colours, girls who did not hold back, and everyone wearing the same odd shoes, which probably could achieve some health labelling. Some of Vibskov's distinctive hats, with a tall, round crown, actually cheered you up. Use them with anything, even with a nice fur coat, if you have one. A special addition to this - plus vests, jackets, backpacks, shirts, dresses and blouses in provocative congestion - was Henrik's sharp eye for commercial clothing, for stores and target groups, who neither want to own tailor-made suits or ties. You need a formidable talent to contain all that. And Henrik Vibskov has that talent.

Mathilde Castello Branco

Azzaro's collections are always named alphabetically by season. The first season's collection featured clothing all given names starting with an A, the next with B names and so on. Azzaro admitted that he would sometimes skip a letter like Q, X or Z because it was too hard to find names for those letters. Azzaro released a wide range of products including women's and men's clothing lines and accessories as well as a wide range of fragrances. in 1975 he created his first fragrance for women, "Couture", which became his signature scent. Over time Azzaro became known for his fragrances as much as his clothing. His favourite colour was blue as he quoted: "The blue colour is the colour that suits me". His inspirations came from the surroundings of his country of birth, Tunisia: "I let myself get carried by the atmosphere of the country of my childhood with its spiced odors, its colors, its flowers and its perfumes. It is the country where I really become myself, the country where my preferred color is everywhere, azure of the sea and the sky.”

Twenty(2)too

Heart and soul of the label "twenty (2) too" is Dan Mihai Zarug. In 2007 he moved to Paris, where he graduated from ESG with a MABA in „Luxury Marketing Management” in 2008. After an internship at the press office TOTEM in Paris, where Mihai had his first contact with some of the most cutting edge contemporary designers in Paris, he took on the job of studio director for Alain Gossuin`s Paris based studio. His first own collection twenty(2)too was launched in 2010."

 

FASHION FOLK S04 ep7 Edith & Ella, Christian Blanken & Holy Ghost

"Line Markvardsen. Edith & Ella

Edith & Ella is a Danish brand which was founded in 2004 by designer and director Line Markvardsen. The company started on a wholesale basis but in 2005 Edith & Ella opened the first flagship boutique in Copenhagen. The feminine and colourful styles turned out to be a success and made it possible to open more Edith & Ella boutiques. Today Edith & Ella has two concept boutiques in Denmark and a webshop. The brand is also sold in Sweden, Norway, Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium, France, Spain, Italy,Ireland and Japan. In 2010 Edith & Ella launched their sub-brand called EPOQUE by Edith & Ella. EPOQUE is a twist to Edith & Ella. The two brands go very well hand in hand but both are also very strong individually. The look of EPOQUE is sharp, edgy and seducing. EPOQUE is as Edith & Ella sold in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium, France, Spain, Italy, Ireland and Japan. Edith & Ella believes in good, long-term business relations to their valued customers and suppliers. Owner Line Markvardsen believes that what goes around comes around and has made this the philosophy of the brand. She daily makes a great effort to make Edith & Ella a pleasant business partner as well as a pleasant company to work for with a lovely atmosphere.

Christian Blanken

Christian was born in the Netherlands but was raised in the Far East and UK. Christian studied for his BA at the Academy of Fine Art in Arnhem, Netherlands and completed his MA at Central Saint Martins. He has previously designed for Michael Kors, Diane Von Furstenberg, Harvey Nichols Private Label and the MaxMara Fashion Group. SIGNATURES: “Clean, tailored, sharp, luxe and modern, not sweet!” IDEAL CLIENT: “Charismatic with an artistic side. She is sensory; she enjoys and understands good fabric, tailoring and attention to detail. Her lifestyle requires easy, modern and interesting pieces.”

HOLY GHOST

The three young women Sedina Halilovic, Ivana Bogicevic and Jelena Radovanovic have shared a deep friendship for over 10 years. Out of their love for fashion, in Spring 2010 holyGhost was born. Sedina Halilovic, The Creative Spirit (born 1982 in Munich): Sedina has studied Fashion Management at „Akademie für Mode und Design“ in Munich and is responsible for the design. Ivana Bogicevic, The Spirit of Development (born 1980 in Kraljevo/ Serbia): Ivana studied at the public School of Fashion in Munich and gained a master in fashion development. She is responsible for production and quality management. Jelena Radovanovic, The Managing Spirit (born 1983 in Belgrade/ Serbia): Jelena has graduated in Econimics at the State University in Munich. She is the head of Sales and Marketing."

 

 

FASHION FOLK S04 ep8 Costume National, Anne-Sofie Madsen & Paris Valtadoros

"CoSTUME NATIONAL

An Italian fashion house founded in 1986 by Ennio Capasa, Creative Director, and his brother Carlo, CEO of the Maison, which has its head offices in Milan. The company produces clothing under the brands Costume National, Costume National Homme (for men) and C’N’C (an ‘avant garde “street-couture” line’[1]) as well as scents including The Trilogy, Scent Gloss, Scent Cool Gloss, Intense, 21, and Homme. The company was founded in 1986 in Milan by Ennio Capasa, fresh from working in Japan as an assistant to Yohji Yamamoto, and by his brother Carlo. Its first womenswear collection was presented in Milan in the same year. In 1991 the ‘Woman Collection’ was presented in Paris. Between 1995 and 1998 the fashion house opened stores in Milan, New York, Rome, Los Angeles and Paris.

Anne Sofie Madsen

With her 2009 final project from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, she took the Danish fashion press with storm and proved that Danish Design has an international format. After opening the Copenhagen Fashion Week with the SS12 collection in 2011, Anne Sofie Madsen was selected ‘Once to Watch’ by the Vauxhall Fashion Scout, which led to a show of the AW 12/13 collection in London, Milan, Kiev, and Saint Petersburg. Anne Sofie Madsen now presents her SS 2013 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week in August. The collection combines Anne Sofie Madsen's couture look with a commercial approach, which sees both made-to-order and ready-to-wear styles, reflecting the designer's time at the Parisian trend forecaster Peclers and since at the House of John Galliano. Before graduating, Anne Sofie Madsen was appointed Junior Designer at the House of Alexander McQueen in London. Anne Sofie Madsen's sense of esthetics departs from the traditional, Danish design and her unique sartorial skills marks the meeting between airy materials and somber, avant-garde applications. All in all the collection is of international format and once again cements Copenhagen's position as the most inspiring fashion metropolis of the North.

Paris Valtadoros

Paris Valtadoros was born in Macedonia, Greece. His apprenticeship in the secrets of female's clothing commences within the family business in his early years. As a young man, he's moving to Athens initially for studies in economics, only to abandon them after a short period in order to follow his inclination. At the beginning of his professional life toward women's garments, he works as purchasing manager at known clothing company, while at the same time he cooperates with the national television as a stylist and with women's magazine as a fashion advisor. Following the opening of his first prêt a porter boutique in Naxos Island, he meets his need to express himself through his personal creations, by attending the AKTO's course of studies in Fashion Design, in which he succeeds ."

FASHION FOLK S04 ep9 Ole Yde, Maria Grachvogel & Aslanis

Ole Yde - Copenhagen

"YDE by Ole Yde The collection YDE mixes elements of tradition, fairy tales and femininity. The aim of the designer, Ole Yde, is to blend history, art, quality and esthetics together in order to create a fresh and refined view of today's woman. Ole Yde's work is focused on the expressive conveying of feelings and moods. The Copenhagen based brand Yde was first launched in 2005, at which time Ole Yde won the Illum design award for his innovative and sophisticated creations. In 2010, both the Silver Thread and the GINEN awards went to Ole Yde for the new talent and the designer of the year respectively. His collections aim at reincarnating the classic feminine beauty using top quality workmanship and material. For Spring/Summer 2013 Ole Yde continues his dream of attempting to bring back the gentle, strong and above all elegant woman.

Maria Grachvogel - London

BACKGROUND: “I decided I wanted to be a fashion designer aged 8 and I started cutting and making clothes from around age 12. My initial learning was at school in the Fashion and Textiles class where I learned some basics of pattern cutting and assembly. Then my own fascination for cut, form and drape led me to develop my own blocks and cutting techniques which have been the basis of my work. It was always my dream to be a designer with my own label and I therefore started my own business when I was 18. I was so determined and focused I didn't even consider the value working for another designer would bring.” SIGNATURES: “Contemporary, versatile pieces that make women feel amazing. I use unconventional methods of cutting and fitting to create clothes that work in harmony with a woman’s body.” IDEAL CLIENT: “A strong, confident woman who is drawn to my collection. She has a strong sense of her own personal style.”

Michalis Aslanis - Athens

Michalis Aslanis After the collection "dance of decades" for the summer 2012, comes along the collection "dance of decades" for the winter 2012-2013. Michalis Aslanis was born in Mikra Asia and he graduated from BAKALO school of Design where he mastered in decoration, graphic Arts, History of Art and Theatre. Finally, the dazzling world of fashion captured his interest since 1974, and dedicated since, his life and career in fashion. Today, he is considered to be one of the most famous Greek designers He has showcased his work in most European cities. At Paris he represented Greece in Avenue FOS in a show where the 25years of French Pret a Porter, were celebrated with the contribution of the world's most famous designers. Moreover the French LIBERATION presented his collection during IGEDO fashion show in Dusseldorf, which was inspired by the Byzantium years, with excellent reviews and at the same time the high valued network CNN covered the event. During the recent years he was invited by many cities to showcase his work including, Frankfurt as a guest of the mayor of Frankfurt, and Princess Caroline of Monaco, where he took part in a Red Cross Gala. As a guest of the Turkish Ambassador he participated in a fashion show in Istanbul and Agira. Every show of Michalis raises favorable reviews not only by the Greek Media but also from high valued networks abroad. His work has a mainly ethnological style, but his main axis is Greece."

 

FASHION FOLK S04 ep10 Rebekka Ruetz, Stylianos & Sara Sachs

"REBEKKA RUÉTZ - Berlin

The designer was born in 1984 in Austria and has devoted her life to fashion and design. In 2008 she graduated AMD fashion academy Munich. During her studies Rebekka Ruétz lived and worked in New Delhi, India, where she found inspiration for her future work. Also in 2008 the designer won the Cognos Relevance Award as Best Graduate. After her studies she worked for the successful British fashion label PETER PILOTTO. In 2009 Rebekka Ruétz launched her own fashion label and now meets the world of fashion design with an incomparable point of view: here values of generation get together,that would like to be touched beyond the visible. Therefore she uses her knowledge in the field of systemic constellation and her education at TCM-Institute of Heidelberg to influence her work.

Stylianos - Crete

Stylianos is a new, promising haute couturier specialized in bridal and evening wear. His involvement with fashion design happened quite naturally for him, since he comes from a family of couturiers. He studied business economics, getting a prize for best academic achievement in 2003. In 2005 he finished his studies in PANSIK where he presented three personal collections in the school's fashion shows and right after that he attended Milan's legendary Instituto Marangoni where he was taught by professionals of Gucci, Cavalli, Sergio Rossi etc. He graduated from his Master's degree with "cum laude" distinction. For one year he worked in Milan as a freelance designer.

Sara Sachs - Copenhagen

Working simultaneously with performance art and fashion, Moonspoon Saloon creates collections with an emotional sensibility founded in the characters of the performances. Designer Sara Sachs consistently explore new terrain with her gender bending pieces while keeping a sense of family to her entire body of work. Her long time collaboration with painter Tal R, Evren Tekinoktay and choreographer Ryan Heffington for their performances at MoCa Los Angeles, Victoria Miro London, Armory Show New York and Charlottenborg Palace has placed Moonspoon Saloon on the frontiers of the art/fashion movement. Moonspoon Saloon is an endless fascination with the potential of clothing and body. The new SS13 collection “No Chocolate” is a return to exclusive materials and classic themes found in the early collections. It is also a return to the runway as a stage with their show Friday the 10th at TAP2."

FASHION FOLK S04 ep11 Antoni&Alison, Rita Pateroni & David Andersen

Antoni & Alison - London

"Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts SIGNATURES: “We have always aspired to make 'zip up and go' pieces.” IDEAL CLIENT: “An individual who can't believe their luck in finding a fantastic, inspirational piece of Antoni & Alison clothing to either own or just to look at.” TRADEMARK PIECE: “It’s a dress…

Rita Pateroni - Athens

The fashion house Rita Pateroni, was established in Athens Greece, more than three decades ago. Behind the label, there is the Pateroni family. Rita and her daughter Liana are the designers. The two of them, along with a team of very experienced staff, are forming an Haute couture atelier, their only purpose is to make fashion. Our philosophy is to deliver, true femininity through sheer elegance and beauty . We want to offer the timelessness but with high aesthetics . The uniqueness of our designs, comes through the inspiration of the designers, and the artistic hands of the women who are sewing them.

David Andersen - Copenhagen

Danish born David Andersen debuted his eponymous collection, DAVID ANDERSEN in 2007 to instant success, both critically and commercially. Approaching its forth year, the collection is represented in 12 countries expanding abroad Europe, and entering the markets of Japan and the US. Every year, the David Andersen shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week keep surprising the critics and fashion followers, with girls modeling the menswear collection, or the stunning performers that give every show a different, almost engaging feeling. David Andersen graduated from Glasgow School of Art 2003, where he was awarded "Best Costume Designer" in 2004. Subsequently, 2004 proved to be an even broader year for recognition as he was awarded "Wedding Gown of the Year" by the Royal Court Theatre in Denmark. David Andersen Denmark is now where his whole heart is at, and it is with a profound passion for architecture, music and museums that he finds inspiration to design couture and ready-to-wear for both genders, though his men's collection is most prominent on the commercial scene. David Andersen Denmark isn't afraid to push the boundaries to the limit by including skin and fur, or experimenting with different shapes and textures, which invites in a very daring audience. For his outspoken and androgynous clothing he was recognized with "The Golden Fur Pin" in 2007. Kopenhagen Fur weren't the only ones who honored DAVID ANDERSEN's audacity. Royal Copenhagen presented him with an award for "A Different Fashion Experience" in 2008. As a well established brand, DAVID ANDERSEN, has a talked about, known about designer, who strives towards perfection; And when given "The Government Art Award" 2010, more nominations quickly followed such as "Design Talent of the Year" at Dansk Fashion Awards 2010 and 2011."

FASHION FOLK S04 ep12 Elsa Adams, Maurizio Galante & Isabell de Hillerin

Elsa Adams - Copenhagen

"ELSA ADAMS All laces are haute couture and comes from the world’s most exclusive laces manufacture from France, they are made in the original old traditional way. This exclusive French lace manufacturer handcrafts nearly all their laces, which brings the highest quality that you find on the earth. They have been delivering to all leading fashion houses around the globe and made the laces to the royal wedding Prince William and Kate Middleton and many other celebrity events. Elsa Adams always chooses and design laces in her own design or a special color and mostly with 3D effects and sometimes more than two color threads, which make the lace unique and get this Elsa Adams coolness.

Maurizio Galante - Paris

Maurizio Galante Haute Couture celebrates a body of work that covers over 25 years of the Paris-based Italian / French couturier's career. Galante is one of the world's most respected haute couture fashion designers, having won numerous awards, and in 2009 was appointed Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et desLettres by the French Minister of Culture. The house of Maurizio Galante Haute Couture joined the French ‘Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture’ as a Membre Invitée in 1992, and was made a permanent member of this very closed circle in 2008. Maurizio Galante's distinctive language is particularly valuable in today’s Haute Couture. Galante, who studied architecture prior to opting for fashion, perceives his garments as objects, with a flexible, fluid structure. Maurizio Galante’s Haute Couture creations are realized with profound respect for traditional craftsmanship, poetically combining an architect's in-depth knowledge with the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier, and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing. They are worn by a select clientele of influential women all over the world, and are included in the collections of the most important international museums.

Isabell de Hillerin - Berlin

The German designer Isabell de Hillerin founded her own fashion label in Berlin 2009, after finishing her fashion design studies at the ‘Felicidad Duce’ in Barcelona. Her design ideas sensitively reflect a personal interpretation of contemporary and sustainable fashion. The combination of clean, innovative cuts and folkloric handmade Romanian and Moldovan materials transmit a position between new design and old tradition. ‘isabell de hillerin’ stands for elegance, structured cuts and details which remind of an old tradition. In recent years the ancient fabrics industry in Romania and Moldovan has been driven to near extinction. To strengthen this traditional artisan industry, her label works with local manufacturers to support the production of handmade materials. Her aim is to push these highly skilled craftsmen by publicising and utilising their cultural skills in a way that hasn´t been done before."

 

FASHION FOLK S04 Ep13 Christophe Josse, Burce Bekrek & Peter Jensen

Christophe Josse - Paris

"Christophe Josse joins in January 2011, the very closed circle of the Haute Couture which confers him the prestigious title of "grand couturier". After studies in history of art and collaborating over than fifteen years with famous designer houses, in July 2005 Christophe Josse presents his first collection under his own name. At the end of 2008, he opens his Haute Couture House at 231 rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. Christophe Josse only designs ethereal collections with an apparent lightness based on an ultra controlled technique. This is made possible by the unique experience of an Haute Couture atelier capable of creating outstanding magic. Romantic, sensual and delicate silhouettes, deliberately anchored in modernity.

BURCE BEKREK - Istanbul

Burce Bekrek is one of the most aspiring upcoming fashion designers of Turkey. Within two years she developed an unique signature style for modern designs with a focus on clean cuts, excellent fit and high quality fabrics. Serenity and minimalism are the core foundation throughout Burce Bekrek´s design process. She is focussing on the simple pattern of a garment and is refining it with her remarkable details. By designing unique, functional, tailored and high quality pieces of clothing she aims to create an outstanding yet simplistic look. The wearability of her outfits are an important purpose for Burce Bekrek as she wants her collections to accommodate the lifestyle of the women wearing them.

Peter Jensen- London

Peter Jensen Since the onset of the Noughties, Peter Jensen has carved out a reputation as a designer whose impeccably produced creations thread together mischievous humour and a celebratory approach to individuality, with an impressive attention to detail and lightness of touch. This approach is clearly apparent within his designs for both men and women - the results of which always deftly remain on the wearable side of unconventional. Based in London, though originally hailing from Logstor, Denmark, Jensen initially launched his eponymous menswear line immediately after graduating - with a Distinction - from Central Saint Martins, in 1999. This, along with his prior training in the various disciplines of graphic design, embroidery and tailoring, has consistently enabled his work to be as technically adept as it is inspired and original."

 

FASHION FOLK S04 ep14 Aminaka Wilmont, Freya Dalsjo & Marcel Ostertag

"Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont. - London

BACKGROUND: Maki is from Japan and Sweden. Marcus hails from Denmark. The designers met while working for Robert Cary-Williams. They studied at Royal College of Art, Central Saint Martins and University of Boras. SIGNATURES: “Sensual, flowing and innovative silhouettes embracing soft, voluminous draping of effortless complexity and avant-garde tailoring.” IDEAL CLIENT: “Self-confident, serene and sensual, with an appreciation of creativity and pure unconventional beauty.” TRADEMARK PIECES: “Experimental drape dresses in abstract prints and asymmetric distressed leather jackets.”

Freya Dalsjö - Antwerp

Emerging from Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Freya Dalsjö showcased her first collection as a live installation fusing fashion and art at this year's Copenhagen Fashion Week. The young designer Freya Dalsjö had the privilege of opening Copenhagen Fashion Week SS13 - a debut collection that revealed the future of danish design. The show took place in Carlsberg's old brewery where the industrial buildings made a fitful setting for Freya Dalsjö's powerful show. Freya Dalsjö's work centers around the tension between opposites; internal and external conflicts. A chaos that emphazises a confident and sexy vitality. "The Freya Dalsjö woman is not even doubting. She is not innocent nor naive. She is not pretending nor looking for validation. She is confident, impressive, outstanding and seductive. She doesn't uniform herself with clothes, she frames herself in it." The show was envisaged as a live installation. A movie showing kaleidoscopic figures in feather and latex introduced the live show, where visuals of a dark marching fashion army accompanied with a mixture of pompous and uncompromising soundscapes, creating a powerful atmosphere around the women and the garments. The shadows are haunting the light. Sharp white shapes are challenging the dark. Delicate feathers and silk are combined with raw latex and python skin. What is exclusive and fragile meets the perverted and animalistic, in a battle between good and evil.

MARCEL OSTERTAG - Munich

Marcel Ostertag is maker and brand in one. In his studio, surrounded by the pulsating streets of the Gärtnerplatz quarter, he creates his collections which are set between tradition and modernity. During his studies at the renowned Central St. Martins College in London, Marcel Ostertag could extend his feeling and know how for fashion and is constantly developing thanks to numerous international shows and collaborations. Catwalk shows in Shanghai, Beijing, London and Vienna are in the meantime routine, as is the seasonal show in the course of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. He draws his inspiration from nature, encounters with interesting people, travels and foreign countries – but never forgets his roots. He has worked on projects with Burberry, Paul Smith and Dunhill, furthermore great brands such as Miele and Volkswagen are amongst his customers. He finally devoted himself to the glamour of fashion with the launch of his own label Marcel Ostertag in 2006. His fashion is exclusively produced in Germany, as his credo is ‘quality needs control’. That is what his style demands and you can feel it in every fantastic piece by Marcel Ostertag."

FASHION FOLK S04 ep15 Victoria Sarri, Dietrich Emter & Claudia Rosa Lukas

Victoria Sarri - Athens

"Victoria S. by F. Erotokritos "Fashion Erotokritos", the already established fashion textile store and the most favorite artistic frequented place, loyal to its values and to its new ideas, it innovates, once more, and substantially supports new talented fashion designers in their first big step. By initiating this valuable effort, it collaborates with the up-and-coming designer, Victoria Sarri and her sensational collection. Providing her with the opportunity to participate, with our textiles and with the utmost attention of our experienced and professional team, Victoria Sarri will outdo herself by presenting her best work.

DIETRICH EMTER - Berlin

After studying fashion design at Lette Verein Berlin, Dietrich Emter went to Paris to develop his practical skills, and to learn from the high end brands of the French fashion industry. At Balenciaga, Emter worked alongside Nicolas Ghesquières, who influenced him significantly in his style. Later he worked at Isabel Marant, and as a junior designer for Chloé. In March 2011, he launched his own fashion label in Berlin, DIETRICH EMTER, and in September presented his first collection to international buyers at the famous Lakic showroom, Paris.

Claudia Rosa Lukas - Vienna

Lukas studied under the legendary Viennese designer Helmut Lang when he taught at Vienna's University of Applied Arts and he set her on the minimalist path. "He made his students do a lot of research to discover the essentials of a garment," says Lukas. "He made us think about every seam you need and don't need and how to construct modern basics." Lukas says she has been interested in fashion for as far back as she can remember. I was into faces and hands first and finally the covered female body. I began by redesigning old clothes." She doesn't like themes or collections with names. "Why bother with unwanted associations?" She asks, describing her style as "a quiet revolution in this fuss-driven fashion world.""

FASHION FOLK S04 ep16 Kaviar Nassos SponDiogo

"KAVIAR GAUCHE -Berlin

They create must-have bags and conceptual, feminine, avant-garde clothes. The Berlin-based label was launched with a guerrilla fashion show in front of the Paris department store Colette in 2003. Eversince, KAVIAR GAUCHE has held a successful presence at an international level. Following a successful debut of their Spring/Summer 2009 collection at London Fashion Week in September 2008, KAVIAR GAUCHE kicked off a spectacular fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin for Autumn/Winter 2009. As early as September 2006, KAVIAR GAUCHE received the London “ON OFF Visionary Award” and its SS07 collection was presented in a runway show at the prestigious London Fashion Week. Immediately following this success, KAVIAR GAUCHE was nominated for the “Swiss Textiles Award”. The KAVIAR GAUCHE SS08 collection won the “New Generation Fashion Award” at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. The Label is continually represented in press and at the beginning of 2008, KAVIAR GAUCHE was elected under “the 10 most important German Fashion Designers”.

Nassos Ntotsikas - Athens

Graduate of Academia di Roma, specialized in knitwear and having worked along with well-established names of the fashion world in Greece and abroad. Nassos Ntotsikas having won the Best Trendsetter Award by Mtv last season presents his 4th collection: haute couture combined with knitwear expertise. Knitted garments of forms stylized using the latest equipment and of the finest materials -sometimes left in their natural state, sometimes treated- multiple-activity clothes that can be transformed to suit the mood and style of every woman.

SPON DIOGO - Berlin/Copenhagen

Mia Lisa Spon and Rui Andersen Rodrigues Diogo have worked together as a design team for more than four years and have designed for various companies on projects such as male / female Prêt-à-Porter collections, jewellery, bags, identity programmes etc. Mia Lisa Spon is a trained tailor and has worked for Danish and Swedish fashion and apparel companies. Rui Andersen Rodrigues Diogo is self-taught in the field of design. Rui ran an art gallery and boutique in Reykjavík and has worked as an arts editor on Danish fashion magazine III and with industrial and graphic design. They both live and work in Copenhagen. In the spring of 2008 they founded their label, SPON DIOGO, presenting their collections in Copenhagen and Paris every season. Mid October 2008, their first 10-piece collection, exclusively for Danish boutique PARISTEXAS, was launched. This capsule collection was a pre-collection for their Spring/Summer 2009 collection entitled "FACETS". Their Autumn/Winter 2009 collection is a full collection comprising of 35 pieces. Their approach to designing is architectonic, graphic and strongly based on their love for materials and tailoring. The Spon Diogo woman is urban, very social and strong."

FASHION FOLK Series 3 [13x26min episodes]

FASHION FOLK S03 ep1 Fatima Lopez,[Pars], Kinder Aguggini [UK], Muelhbauer [Vienna]

Fatima Lopez [Lisbon]

Fátima comes from the Portuguese island of Madeira. She was born and grew up in its capital city, Funchal. Since an early age she showed an interest in fashion and during her adolescence, unhappy with what the shops had to offer in terms of clothing, started to design her own clothes. Being fluent in English, French and German, she worked as a tourist guide for a local travel agency. In 1990 Fátima moved to Lisbon, where she believed she could better pursue a career as a fashion designer. With a friend she opened a boutique named "Versos", which sold mainly clothes from international designers. In 1992 the boutique changed its name to "Fátima Lopes" and in that year the Fátima Lopes brand was born. In September of the same year, she participated in a fashion show made in an old convent in Lisbon (Convento do Beato), where her work was widely applauded. In 1994 she exhibited her collection in Paris at the "Salon du Prêt-à-Porter Feminin". Two years later she opened her first international store in Paris, located in the famous rue de Grenelle. At the same time she began to diversify her collections by creating bags and shoes for both men and women.

Kinder Aguggini [London]

Kinder Aggugini CollectionKinder is an intriguing character. An Italian Ex-punk, he studied at St. Martins during the 1980?s and worked on Savile row before movingto John Galliano (where he applied for the job dressed as a policeman). He also worked at Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, Costume National and as a head designer for Versace following the death of Gianni. Its a pretty fine fashion heritage by anyone’s standards

Klaus Muelbaer [Vienna]

In 1903 Julianna Mühlbauer laid the foundation stone of the now over 100 year old family business. She opened a small millinery with shop attached in the Viennese suburb of Floridsdorf with her husband Robert.

Fashion Folk S03 ep2 John Rocha, Gaspard Yurkievich & Christine Berger

John Rocha [UK]

[London] Born in Hong Kong and of Chinese and Portuguese descent, John Rocha moved to London in the 1970's to study fashion. He eventually moved to Dublin in the 1980's where he has lived for the past twenty-two years, working closely with his wife and business partner Odette. The opening of the Morrison Hotel in 1999 confirmed John Rocha's successful involvement in the first of a number of architectural projects. Working with interior design and structural architecture, office and residential projects have been completed in Dublin and Liverpool. In July 2002, John Rocha's contemporary range of organically inspired jewellery was launched.

Gaspard Yurkievich [Paris]

[Paris] Known for his wild and outlandish catwalk presentations, French designer Gaspard Yurkievich is also fast becoming the designer of choice by fashion forward young men and women who like wearing street and urban clothes with a Parisian touch. A native of Paris, (born May 16, 1972), Gaspard Yurkievich studied at the Studio Bercot from 1991-93; wherein after graduation, he trained under Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler and Jean Collona. To hone his skills, the Paris native entered several competitions, one of them the 12th International Festival of Art and Fashion at the Hyeres (May 1997), wherein he won for the women’s collection as well as the 3 Suisse Prize. The next year (1998), Yurkievich won the ANDAM competition.

Christine Berger [Vienna]

[Vienna] Christina Berger is the very tongue-in-cheek representative of Vienna’s up-and-coming young generation of fashion designers. Her clothes are as extravagant as her collection titles are daring. With some amusement we remember the title she chose for fall 2009, which is YOU DID A GREAT BLOW JOB, BRIGITTE! YOURS FREDL M - allegedly referring to Brigitte Nielsen and Freddy Mercury as outstanding inspirations.Well well well… Now Christina has come up with something new, something exciting, something never heard of before (uhm…). Starting on September 17 and until Sept. 25 she will tour the fashion capitals of Europe with her spring 2010 collection, the overall motto is White Vest in Wild West. If that’s not something, then we don’t know.

Fashion Folk S03 ep3 Felipe Oliviera Baptista, Samantha Sotos & Jasper Conran

Felipe Oliveira Baptista

[Paris] Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista has been in the fashion industry since 1997, working for such names as Max Mara, Cerruti and Thimister as well as doing free lance design, photography and graphic design. He showed his first collection under his own name in 2002 and was quickly recognized, becoming the co-winner of the “Grand Prix” at the “Festival de Hyeres”, since then he has won several other awards as well as been invited to join the official Calender of Paris Haute Couture, fathered by Hermes and Gaultier. He has now launched his 2008 Spring collection, a mix of couture and ready-to-wear.

Jasper Conran [London]

The son of design guru Sir Terence Conran, Jasper Conran was literally born (1960) to the world of design. At 19, when he produced his first collection, it did not really surprise anyone. Of course, at that time, he already has a degree in Design from Parsons School of Design (1977) and had already worked at Fiorucci (New York) and Wallis (London). The British Design Council has called him a "classicist" and had awarded him the much coveted British Designer of the Year Award in 1986. He also designs contemporary crystals for Stuart. For his work at Stuart Crystals, Jasper Conran quoted: "When Stuart invited me to collaborate on a collection of contemporary crystal, I approached it in the same way I approach designing clothes - use the best materials and keep it simple."

Samantha Sotos [Athens]

Sydney born, Athens based "Euralian" designer.

 

Fashion Folk S03 ep4 Manish Arora [UK] Eun Jeong [Korea] Simeoni [Athens]

Manish Arora [India]

Manish Arora is regarded by many as "the John Galliano of India".[6] He is known for a rich palette of psychedelic colours and kitsch motifs in garments that combine traditional Indian crafts like embroidery, appliqué and beading with Western silhouettes

Eun Jong [London]

Career highlights: “There are many: winning Fashion Fringe 2008; working as a part-time tutor on the Fashion Design course at Kent Institute; developing my own label ‘1st element by hong eun jeong’; designing uniforms for Hyundai Department store staff in Korea; illustrating for an international textile magazine. I designed three collections in Seoul, Korea and became a manager of the overseas business department at D.S Textile in UK at the same time as running my own label in the UK. Design background: Eun graduated from Kent Institute with a BA and then completed her MA at Central Saint Martins. She was manager of the Overseas Business Department at D.S. Textile in the UK.

Simeonis [Athens]

Konstantinos Simeoni was born in 1969 in Thessaloniki Greece. He graduated from high school in 1986 and then went to the "VELUDAKIS FASHION SCHOOL" in Athens, where he studied fashion design. After his graduation from there and his Master's course at "ISTITUTO DI MODA BURGO" in Milan, he returned to Thessaloniki. He created his fashion house in 1996 and six months later his Boutique. Since then, he creates his collections every season, which he presents in his personal fashion shows in Thessaloniki and Athens.

 

Fashion Folk S03 ep5 Peechoo Krejbourg[Paris] Jessie LeCompte [Brussels] Osman[UK]

Peachoo Krejbourg[India-Denmark]

Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg, the Indian-Dutch duo behind Peachoo + Krejberg, belong to the Belgian wing of Paris fashion. They specialize in monochomes, deconstruction, odd volumes, and, when glitz does enter the picture, an organic sort of bling. With its askew jackets, floppy asymmetric skirts, and draped layers, fashion followers saw shades of Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring 2009 collection in the show they put on at the Musée de l’Homme yesterday, their fourth at Paris fashion week.

Osman [London]

Osman Yousefzada, has created a distinctive signature for his label. Osman Yousefzada studied Fashion Design at Central St Martins then launched his own label in September 2005. Exclusively available at Browns is Osman Yousefzada first pre-collection of his best-selling styles. The designs are tailored, architectural and will flatter all women. Celebrity fans include Thandie Newton, Mary Kate-Olsen, Charlize Theron, Kerry Washington, Jemima Khan, Lily Cole, Kate Moss, Alice Delall and Alek Wek

Jessie LeComte [Brussels]

After finishing her studies at the Antwerp Fashion Academy in 1996, Jessie Lecomte worked as an intern and freelance designer for different labels. As a director of design, Jessie Lecomte is known for her technical expertise and her creative vision. With her own label, Jessie Lecomte expresses a personal and purely creative view on today’s fashion. Her collections translate the designers’ affinity for intelligent details, noble fabrics and modern cut. The collections are based on the exercise of shapes, structures and techniques rather than on thematic concepts.

 

Fashion Folk S03 ep6 Harry Halim[Singapore-Paris] Betty Jackson[UK] J'ATON[Melbourne]

Harry Halim [Paris]

Harry Halim is an Indonesian born designer based in Paris who has been designing since 2005. His designs are delicately crafted and immaculately tailored. Harry Halim's first collection was launched in 2006. Halim won the Asian Young Designer Contest that same year. In 2008 Halim relocated to Paris. Halim's designs have a distinctive modern-romanticism and darkly sensual aesthetic, which is always imaginative, deeply provocative and very glamorous.

Betty Jackson [London]

Born in Lancashire (1949), Betty Jackson started her fashion career as a fashion illustrator during her senior year (1971) at the Birmingham College of Art. She did that for three years, and then she moved on to get her "hands-on experience" as a design assistant. In 1981, ten years after graduation, she struck on her own, and founded Betty Jackson Ltd. Described by the British Fashion Council as a "directional classicist" Betty Jackson's style of dressing is based on comfort and relaxed style. Leaning heavily on unstructured separates and daywear, Betty Jackson's creations are usually soft and feminine. She usually gets her inspirations from colors and patterns, imagining it being worn by a woman, and then designs around that palette. Easy, contemporary and liberated clothes are the adjectives that describe Betty Jackson's work. "My work is understated and easy. I do not like formal dressing and I always try to achieve a relaxed and casual look. The mix of texture and pattern is very important and we work with many textile designers to have specialness and exclusivity on fabrics. Unexpected fabrics are often used in simple, classic shapes."

J'Aton [Melbourne]

Brides often confide in Jacob Luppino and Anthony Pittorino, the designers behind the couture label J'Aton: they tell them that they never expected to get so many compliments from men. "We're coming from a different angle being male designers," explains Luppino. "We dress women the way men want to see women dressed." These two hard-working designers launched their label in 1995 and since then have won many awards for their contemporary couture. Luppino recalls the early days: "We started this business with no financial support or backing and when we sold a dress we'd buy what we needed: sewing machines, equipment and so on." Both Pittorino and Luppino come from Italian families and similar backgrounds. Their excellent ability to understand each other has also translated into perfect business sense over the years. Their first Melbourne store opened in Ascot Vale, their local area, and then moved to Prahran five years later where they aimed to broaden their client base. And they've certainly done so. Their celebrity clients are the who's who of Australian television and music: Delta Goodrem, Tara Moss, Ada Nicodemou, Sigrid Thornton, Megan Gale and Holly Brisley have all worn their gowns. Their design process is part of what attracts Australia's elite, a process that ensures that every bride feels like a star when her dress designed by J'Aton.

 

Fashion Folk S03 ep7 Carine Gilson[Paris-Brussels] Eley-Kishimoto[UK], Delight[Athens]

Carine Gilson [Brussels]

A Fine Arts graduate from the Brussels academy and the Antwerp Fashion Academy, Carine Gilson was only 23 when she bought a small sewing workshop. In 1994 she created the “Carine Gilson Lingerie Couture” line. The most precious and noble materials are used in her collections. Carine Gilson is one of the rare designers to imagine lingerie as more than a simple accessory. Each season, she is inspired by a different artistic theme (Russian ballet, Klimt, Art Nouveau, Art Deco…). Production takes place in her own workshop in Brussels where, for more than 15 years, she has perfected her skills and the quality of her work. Handmade design in a “haute couture” spirit. The use of subtle colours gives the collection a timeless quality while remaining determinedly modern. Very quickly, she seduced the most prestigious shops and departments stores, from New York to Tokyo, via Rome and London. In 2006, Carine Gilson opened her first shop in Paris, and in the same spirit, in 2007 in London.

Eley Kishimoto [London]

Eley Kishimoto are surface Decorators. Fundamentally striving to make the world a prettier place, Eley Kishimoto create work that is clear in intention, executed simply, and with creative flair; they do not succumb to trends and fads. Instead the vision is clear and in the forefront, fashion is used as a platform to communicate with a wide and varied audience. From a partnership forged in the early 90's, Eley Kishimoto quickly gained a reputation for incisive and intelligent print design with their work being displayed on the catwalks of the world through work with Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz and Jil Sander, to name but a few. In the mid 90's the partnership moved into the fashion world with the launch of their first womenswear collection; this proved to be such a success that the company has produced collections ever since. The principle activity is womenswear fashion, but Eley Kishimoto has already worked with partners to offer footwear, hosiery, sunglasses, leather belts, and various 'flash' collaborations, under the umbrella of womenswear mainline.

Delight [Athens]

Athens-based fashion designers Daphne Iliaki and Evi Retziou created their first Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 collection after graduating from fashion school in June 2008. They have Marketing and Accounting educational background respectively. They presented their projects, individually, for the Create Europe: Fashion Academy Award at the Hellenic Fashion Week in March 2008. They both attended a workshop for Fashion and Architecture: Food-wear for the Hellenic Fashion Week in September 2008 and presented their work on the last day of shows. Their collaboration began as soon as they realized they had similar views on fashion, such as conceptual projects, geometric forms, the search for unusual materials and a humorous look on fashion. DELIGHT presented their first collection Autumn/Winter 2009/2010 at the Athens Fashion Week in March 2009. Since then they have been regularly presenting their collections every season in Athens Fashion Week. On April 2010 DELIGHT presented their F/W 2010 Collection at Cluj Napoca Fashion Week in Rumania. DELIGHT designed the staff uniforms for the Onassis Cultural Centre Athens since their design proposal was accepted. DELIGHT won the first prize of the Most Commercial Design Collection for Spring 2011 at the 1st International Designer Awards held by the IAF (International Apparel Federation) that took place in Hong Kong(5-7 October 2010). Their clothes can be found in Athens, Moscow and Berlin.

Fashion Folk S03 ep8 Ashish [UK] MED[Athens] Amya [Madrid]

Ashish [London]

Ashish Gupta is about colour and fun with a fifties twist. Baggy halter-top pleated mini dresses were styled with spandex tights as Ashish’s first looks of the collection. These mini dresses were made in a simple cotton fabric, which had a sparkle finish within the fabric. This same fabric is later carried over into his punk off the shoulder oversized jumpers. Small cardigans and tweed coats were layered on top of printed dresses and shirts. Many traditional items such as trouser suits were more relax with a loose fit. Track suits in burgundy and midnight blue were loose fit as well. These track suits are comfortable chic yet stylish with a cute pump. A signature motif this season for Gupta is his multi-rainbow colour sweaters and dresses. This motif is full of small threads intricately splashed all over which are reminiscent of jumpers from children of the 80’s. Stretching back to the 50’s, Gupta designed poodle skirts in funky colours with layers of tulle slips underneath to give a dynamic flare. These key skirts were simply styled with tanks and sweat shirts with political slogans such as: “Children are Special. “ Gupta is a budding new talent who is catching the true spirit of London style.

MED [Athens]

Amya Arznaga [Madrid]

Amaya Arzuaga (born in Lerma (Burgos), in 1970), is a Spanish designer. She studied in the UPM and in 1992 she finished Fashion Design and joined her parents' enterprise, Elipse. In 1994, she created her own firm. She sells and shows her collections regularly in international fashion fairs like Atmosphère (Paris), Fashion Cotterie (New York), Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (Milan), Pasarela Cibeles (Madrid), Passarel·la Gaudí (Barcelona), and London Fashion Week(London). Amaya Arzuaga has more than 200 boutiques in Spain.

SERIES 3: Fashion Folk S03 ep9 Lakis Gavalas[Athens] Dejana Kabiljo [Vienna] Emilio DelaMoreno[UK]

Lakis Gavalas [Athens]

Fashion is not Lakis Gavalas’ first choice in life. He was born in 1957 and comes from a wealthy family from Piraeus. His father was the owner of a marble processing factory and the little Apostolakis (this is his real name) is a graduate of the Greek-French School. The designer told for Athens Magazine that his first job was at age of 17 at a furrier who made school bags in the area of Monastiraki. There, he demonstrated his talent in fashion for the first time as he managed to make a few state-of-the-art bags for that time. According to him, these bags were very successful. He went to Italy as a dancer at the age 20 and started working in the Italian television RAI. He discovered the world of fashion there and became fashion shows choreographer first. His more creative collaboration with Italian designers began when he was 27 and at the age of 29 he returned to Greece with the idea to open a shop on the island of Rhodes, which at that time was still a free zone and all luxury goods would be imported duty free. Later, his commercial network started growing, and then he created his own brand of apparels .LAK, although he does not like to be called a designer.

Dejana Kabiljo [Vienna]

The multidisciplinary artist and designer Dejana Kabiljo currently lives and works in Vienna. After graduating in architecture at the University of Belgrade and receiving a Master Degree in design from the Domus Academy in Milan, she took up the post of Art Director at the Vienna Museum of Technology. Two years later, she started her own professional practice for design and architecture and was lecturer at the University of applied Arts in Vienna. She launched her own design brand Kabiljo Inc and had the chance to showcase her first collection in exhibitions at the MAK in Vienna. Kabiljo had personal exhibitions all over the world, amongst others in Tokyo, London, Milan, Vienna, of which, the humorous PRETTYPRETTY collection, which consists of hairy bar stools, poufs and chairs, was perticularly successful.

Emilio de la Morena [London]

Emilio De La Morena is a fashion designer, born in Spain but based in Britain since 1993. After graduating with a first class honours degree in International Business from Edinburgh, De La Morena joined one of the world’s leading brand consultancies based in London. He began studying Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins in 2002, going on to work for Rafael Lopez and Jonathan Saunders. De La Morena's work is inspired by his Spanish heritage, often featuring complex use of obscure craft techniques. He reached the semifinals of the Fashion Fringe Award with his debut womenswear collection in 2005. In 2008, the designer was the recipient of New Generation sponsorship for the first time.

Fashion Folk S03 ep10 Guy Laroche[Paris] And-i [Vienna] Kyriakidis [Athens]

Guy Laroche[Paris]

Marcel Marongiu sees fashion design as a genuine means of communication. He wants people to be able to live out their fantasies by wearing his clothes and to discover what he terms "la vie plus belle," the beautiful life. Marongiu designs clothes that are classically elegant yet also up to date, sexy, and carefree. His style is always strong and pronounced, the cut always clean and streamlined, emphasizing the contours and shape of the human body. Stretch fabrics and natural classic fabrics, often with a small Lycra percentage, help him achieve these silhouettes.

Andreas Eberharter [Vienna]

andreas eberharter’s approach to design is that of a sculptor who seeks free access to expressions of artistic form. he uses new and unusual materials such as aluminum and acrylic glass, but also swarovski crystals and pearls or cubic zirconia.

Victoria Kyriakidis [Athens]

Victoria Kyriakides created her first collection in 1988. SInce then she boasts 34 personal collections and 16 years of creative presence in the industry. The Victoria Kyriakides label was founded in 1995. Her pret-a-porter deluxe collections are featured in boutiques all around Greece, Cyprus and London. In addition, she designs collections for some of the best known labels in the Greek industry as well as for advertising campaigns of major international companies. Since 2000 she has focused mainly on haute-couture. "I design and get my inspiration from nature, life and the beauty every woman radiates", says Victoria. Each one of her designs are unique and different. Based on each womans' personality and femininity she creates small works of art.

Fashion Folk S03 ep11 Marloes Bhomer[Amsterdam] Lukas[Athens] Krug8 [Belgrade]

Marloes Bhomer[London-Amsterdam]

Marloes Ten Bhömer a London based Dutch product designer graduated from the London College of Fashion & The Royal College of Art. She is considered one of the most promising designers of her generation and has exhibited worldwide. Most recently she was nominated for the Grand Brit Insurance Design Award held at the Design Museum. Ten Bhömer’s shoes are both provocative and otherworldly; Her works question our perception of functionality, fusing art and technology to create an origami like production, working with materials ranging from wood to polyurethane resin, tarpaulin, steel and fiberglass. Marloes ten Bhömer is a Hussein Chalayan for the extremities.’ Wallpaper Magazine

Lukas [Athens]

Lukas studied Mechanical Engineering at the National Technical University of Athens but his passion for fashion design led him to AKMI IVT where he attended the Fashion Design and Styling courses. Following his dreams, he goes to Paris and takes some seminar courses in Fashion Design and Pattern Drafting as well as in accessories, bags and shoes Design at ESMOD (Paris). From that moment on, he keeps impressing us with his creations. To hone his skills, LUKAS entered the “Heering Accessorize 2009? competition wherein among the 12000 contestants, he won the first price and his participation in Copenhagen Fashion Week. His amazing personality and talent lead LUKAS to generate more fame and compliments on himself and his brand and it’s not surprising that Greek and international magazines (e.g. Glamour, Mirror, Life&Style, BHMAdonna, Athens Magazine, Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan, VOGUE UK, ELLE UK) shed their lights on his creations. He builds up connections with Greek artists (Despina Vandi, Tamta and Antigone Psihrami) and media shows like Greek Next Top Model, Greek Idol while his haute couture red geisha gown in X-Factor back in 2009 attracted all fashionista’s eyes. His creations now can be found in boutiques in major cities around the world (Copenhagen, Los Angeles and New York).

Krug 8 [Serbia]

Belgrade based fashion designer consortium including a Milliner, Architect and Leathergoods Designer.

Fashion Folk S03 ep12 Delvaux [Brussels] Meadham Kirchoff [UK] Alexandrakis [Athens]

Delvaux [Brussels]

Founded in 1829 in Brussels, Delvaux is the oldest fine leather luxury goods company in the world. Delvaux has remained a family-owned company, precisely because it wants to protect such values as ethics, quality, exclusivity and elegance, and to be able to deliver an authentic luxury experience to its customers, based on their expectations. Delvaux is first and foremost about the product: handmade following the oldest craft traditions, using the finest leathers, created by renowned designers in limited editions to guarantee exclusivity. Products made with taste and perfection, to last generations.

Meadham Kirschoff [London]

English Edward Meadham and French born Benjamin Kirchhoff graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2002. The pair launched their womenswear collection, Meadham Kirchhoff, as part of Fashion East in February 2006. The pair have since won further shows with the scheme and have more recently been awarded catwalk sponsorship as part of NEWGEN scheme for the last 2 seasons. Defining their aesthetic incorporates a classic take on both bourgeois garments and hard street cultures. The continuous ongoing struggle between dark and light develops the label’s signature use of toughness against fluidity. The woman for whom they design is uncompromising, nonchalantly elegant, intelligent and melancholic.

Katerina Alexandraki [Athens]

Katerina Alexandraki is a contemporary designer, based in Athens, who likes to mix fashion with art and social issues. Her inspiration is derived from themes like geometry, the wheel of the bicycle, the game of chess, the supermarket as well as from Expressionistic and Surrealistic art forms. Her basic mission is to observe street life and the progression of music in the big cities around the world. Showcasing in 5th Floor, Bread and Butter, Premium, Ideal Showroom and Project Gallery in Berlin, she developed a strong bond with this historic city- often a source of inspiration..!

Fashion Folk S03 ep13 Kenzo [Paris] Bettina Liano [Melbourne] NikosTakis [Athens]

KENZO

Kenzo's success started in 1970: during this year he presented his first show at the Vivienne Gallery; his first store, "Jungle Jap" was opened; and one of his models appeared in the cover of ELLE.[1] His collection was presented in New York and Tokyo in 1971. The next year, he won the Fashion Editor Club of Japan's prize. Kenzo proved his sense of dramatic appearance when, in 1978 and 1979, he held his shows in a circus tent, finishing with horsewomen performers wearing transparent uniforms and he himself riding an elephant.

BETTINA LIANO

Bettina Liano established her label in the 80's with a collection of simply draped jersey dresses, having never taken a sewing lesson in her life. The designer has worked across fashion genres, from denim, street, and even to swimwear. In addition to the signature label that carries the designers name, there is also a diffusion streetwear label named "BLYA" available. Much of her fame in international fashion scene comes from making sleek, fitted pants that spawned the idea to create a sexy, fitted jeans for the modern woman that fit like a second skin.

NIKOS TAKIS

Nikos-Takis Haute Couture has been successfully in the fashion industry for the past 48 years. The designer team behind the firm has a strong sense of creativity and adjusts constantly the collections to comply today's style. The designers' continuous search for new and creative ways has driven them towards the operation of Nikos-Takis Fashion Hotel in the island of Rhodes, a Professional Models Training School and a Models' Agency in Peristeri - Athens, a Baby Christening Collection and a total Men's Collection. Shortly, the designers will sign collections in the area of footwear, sportswear, home furniture, white linen and cosmetics.

 

FASHION FOLK Series 2 [15x26min episodes]

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep1

NICOLE FARHI

She is so well established as a designer who designs sympathetically for like-minded women that she needs little explanation. Born in Nice and trained in fashion design, she moved to London in the early 1970's to work with Stephen Marks on the French Connection brand. She launched her own label with Marks in 1982 and added a very successful mens-wear collection in 1989. Two diffusion ranges called Farhi now exist for both men and womens-wear. Her flagship store in Bond Street, London houses her collections, her home-wares, swimwear and accessories plus her popular eponymous restaurant. There is an almost identical store just off Madison Avenue in New York. London. She has won many awards for both her mens and womens-wear collections; sculpts for a little more than relaxation and is married to the playwright David Hare.

SOPHIE ALBOU

Fashion scholar Sophie Albou first got her stylish feet wet at France's Fashion Institute. She followed her graduation with an appointment at Azzedine Alaia and then became a stylist for Le Garage. In 1995 Albou launched her first menswear collection, under the name "Paul and Joe" - a shout out to her two young sons. Two years later the designer released a womenswear line under the same moniker, to critical acclaim.

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep2

Ben de Lisi

American born de Lisi has built a reputation for designing clothes with a subtle, flattering glamour with collections that focus on eveningwear. From his Elizabeth Street shop his flourishing business in bridal dresses both couture and ready-to-wear has been expanded. His BDL evening range for Debenhams has been a mass-market success story while his interiors for a large property company in the UK have added another string to his bow. He also designs a range of bathrooms for Abacus and has plans to extend into other areas of lifestyle products. De Lisi has just started filming the third series of the television programme Project Catwalk where his role of feisty mentor to competitors has been impressive.

SWAROVSKI - Nathalie Colin Roblique

Nathalie Colin Roblique, Swarovski's Creative Director said, "A study in asymmetry, a search for slightly savage effects, and a desire for irregularity that satisfies a need for authenticity and truth... I wanted to create versatile and nomadic jewellery that never stops moving. "Alive and sensual," she added, "these jewels can be rolled up or draped. Their fringes echo human gestures and move with the body. Some jewels appear to be abstract sculptures - somewhere between jewellery and art objects - but they are neither narrative nor realistic." The slideshow gives you a glimpse of this fantastic show. To see details of the collection, immerse yourself into the Soul of Time and enjoy the ultimate experience.

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep3

AMANDA WAKELEY

She is a mirror of the women she aims to dress with an innate understanding of the confident, glamorous clothes they need. As her labels impressive A list clientele proves - Scarlett Johansson, Mischa Barton and Sarah Michelle Gellar are amongst her many fans. She has won the British Fashion Award for Glamour three times in the past. With new backers she has moved her production to China and India.

MASSARO

Raymond Massaro has had his hands on the most beautiful and famous feet in the world. And from the looks of the new thigh-high velvet boots he's crafting for Chanel, he's had his hands on a lot more than feet. He will not comment, though, beyond a sly smile and bemused twinkle in his eye. Discretion is of course de rigueur for those who cater to haute couture and the world's glitterati. Massaro will, however, admit that during his 56-year career, he has handcrafted shoes for the likes of Marlene Dietrich, the Duchess of Windsor, Claudia Schiffer, Morocco's King Hassan and fashion houses from Vionnet to Alaïa. One can only imagine what other famous feet have climbed the stairs to this dusty second-floor atelier on the rue de la Paix.

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep4

AKIRA

Akira Isogawa is one of Australia’s most celebrated designers. Born in Kyoto Japan, Akira moved to Australia in 1986 where he studied fashion design at the Sydney Institute of Technology, drawing inspiration from contemporary Japanese design. Since 1998, Akira has shown his collections in Paris, where he presents Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter collections to international buyers each year. He has achieved international recognition for his exquisite contemporary designs, which are sought after in every major fashion capital throughout the world. Akira continues to maintain a strong presence in Sydney, where he has shown his Resort collections during Australian Fashion Week since 1996. He has four stand alone boutiques in Australia – in Woollahra and the Strand Arcade, Sydney; the GPO in Melbourne; and, Fortitude Valley, Brisbane. Since being named Designer of the Year and Womenswear Designer of the Year at the Australian Fashion Industry Awards in 1999 Akira has received a string of awards. In 2007 Akira was awarded the inaugural Australian Fashion Laureate Award for his contribution to the Australian Fashion Industry. In 2006 Akira received the Award for Fashion Excellence. And, in 2005 he was honoured by Australia Post and his image appeared on an ‘Australian Legend’ commemorative postage stamp – to name just a few.

CAROLINE CHARLES

London can't boast many designers who began their careers in the sixties and are still creating with a great sense of style and a passion for their craft. She has shops strategically placed throughout the UK; key international stockists and licensees in Japan. She celebrated the 40th year of her business with a party in 2002 at the V & A and was also awarded an OBE for services to the British fashion industry

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep5

PPQ - Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker

PPQ designers Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker are an energetic double act who began their label in 1999. They design a main line women's and men's collection and a highly popular jeans collection. With investment from Icelandic retail giant Bugar they expanded the company and opened their first shop in Conduit Street during LFW last September. They also have a vibrant record label called 1234. Vibrant colour and print are important components of their collections, which have become more luxurious in past seasons. Their jewel colour-block cocktail dresses have become something of a cult this year joining their ubiquitous perfect smock. Their PPQ skinny jeans are great favourites with the rock fraternity. Sienna Miller, Kiera Knightly, Lily Allen, Sophia Coppola, Kirsten Dunst and Amy Winehouse are all fans. Accessories - bags, belts and shoes - and a semi-precious jewellery range complete their collections.

COLLETTE DINNIGAN - Collette Dinnigan

Collette Dinnigan is no overnight success. In her late teens, Collette attended Wellington Polytechnic and on graduation she moved to Australia to began her career in fashion, working for the Costume Department of the Australian Broadcasting Commission in Sydney. Attention to detail and a historical perspective on both fabrication and design were the result. Stepping out on her own in 1990, the Collette Dinnigan label was born. Collette's distinctive style meant her in-demand designs were snapped up by hip boutiques and department stores in Australia and New Zealand. Barney's New York, Neiman Marcus, Harvey Nichols and Joyce in Hong Kong were soon to follow and an international presence was established.

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep6

ELIE SAAB

In 1982, Saab launched his own Beirut-based fashion label when he was just 18 years old. His main workshop is in Lebanon, a country to which he remains deeply attached. He also has workshops in Milan and Paris. Saab is self-trained. He started sewing as a child and knew that one day he would make a living out of it. In 1981 he moved to Paris to study fashion, but ended up returning and opening his workshop in 1982. In 1997 Saab was the first non-Italian designer to become a member of the Italian Camera Nazionale della Moda, and in 1997, showed his first collection outside Lebanon in Rome. In 1998, he started ready-to-wear in Milan, and in the same year, he held a fashion show in Monaco which was attended by Princess Stephanie of Monaco. He gained notoriety after he became the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner, Halle Berry, in 2002. In May 2003, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture invited him to become a member, and he showed his first haute couture collection in Paris in July 2003

ORSALIA PARTHENI

Dimitris Parthenis opened his first store in Athens in 1970 and his second in Mykonos in 1978 which launched his label internationally with flagship stores in Brussels and Los Angeles. Daughter Orsalia continues her father's tradition of "chic sportif".

 

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep7

MAHLIA KENT - Eve Corrigan

Mahlia Kent was Coco Chanel's fabric creator. Today, the company consists of a creative team coming from 15 different nationalities, under the direction of ex-fashion model - EVE CORRIGAN (French - American Mahlia Kent has over 50 years of long term relations with artists, designers and fashion stylists of the world and the great couture houses of CHANEL, DIOR, GUCCI, PRADA, KENZO, YSL, RALPH LAUREN, CK, DKNY, VERSACE, VALENTINO, etc.

BORA AKSU

Turkish born Aksu graduated from Central St Martins MA in 2002 starting his own label immediately. He has previously been awarded New Generation sponsorship four times. In the past he has worked with Converse incorporating aspects of the popular sneakers into his clothes. He has collaborated with ballet choreographer Cathy Marston designing costumes for her TCMP tour. He also designs an exclusive diffusion line for the retail group Koton called 'Bora Aksu for Koton'.

 

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep8

CHRISTOPHE GUILLARME

Graduate of the Higher School of the applied arts, Christophe carries out a successful initiatory course at J.C. de CASTELBAJAC, Dice KAYEK and Stella CADENTE. In 1998, Christophe signs his first collection which meets with an immediate success. He then launches his line under his own name one year later. The work of Christophe is at crossroads between modern and tradition. Conservative in his creative process and in the refinement of the details, his models are versatile and successfully mix Glam' Rock and couture. An ultra feminine style which has already caught the eye of many celebrities from Paris to Los Angeles as well as Cannes.

PAUL COSTELLOE

The Dublin-born designer continues to expand his successful business. One of the most established names in British fashion he has a loyal following for his wearable designs in his signature linens, tweeds and printed silks. This past year he has been expanding his UK based shops and European concessions. His collections are an essentially classic and fresh mix of tailoring, knitwear and dresses with three main aspects each season. His main line 'Collection' focuses on occasion dressing for day and evening using fine Italian fabrics. 'City' is a capsule range of strong tailored suiting at keen price points, perfect for the working woman. 'Dressage' is the leisure section of the collection; casual cords, denims mixed with butter soft nappa jackets, fine knits and jersey pieces for relaxed but stylish weekends.

 

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep9

UNCONDITIONAL - PHILIP STEPHENS

Philip Stephens had a varied career before he landed back on Planet Fashion working in interior design, event management and club promotion. He started the fashion/lifestyle consultancy Concrete PR and Marketing in 1996 and the Concrete Shop followed 4 years later. The UNCONDITIONAL collection was initially designed exclusively for the shop but Louis Boston became his first wholesale customer and encouraged him to expand the range. There are now over 90 international stockists in 18 countries. They are a winning combination of the laidback and the edgy. . The collections have a diverse range of celebrity customers which include Brad Pitt, David Beckham, Jude Law, Adrian Brody, to David Bowie and Depeche Mode, Kasabian and Mika. Cameron Diaz, Tori Amos, Madonna, Kelis, Skin, Jade Jagger, Amy Winehouse, and Sheryl Crow are female fans.

TINA KALIVAS

Greek-Australian designer Tina Kalivas began her career in London, working within the Fashion and Film Industry. Primarily she worked at Alexander McQueen, Clements Ribeiro, Russell Sage and J. Maskrey where she was a seamstress and Creative Pattern Cutter of showpieces and private orders. Now she is creating her own label & making her own mark in the fashion Industry. Her collaborations include designing a capsule collections for Kookai and Target, Designing uniforms for the new luxury Sydney Hilton Hotel and much more. Tina is making her own path and really determining what design means to her, personally. She is unlike many designer, she always finds a new way to approach fashion. Her most recent collection, Polyrhythms is just testament to how far things can and will go in fashion. Inspiration is ever growing and never ending. Tina’s FW09 collection is about Polyrhythms, which is the simultaneous sounding of two or more independent rhythms, often heard in traditional African music and the Jazz music of artists like Miles Davis and John Coltrane.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep10

YUKI TORII

As a child, Yuki Torii had ambitions of becoming a painter. Pattern and color had always excited her, and when she became a professional designer in the early 1960s, her approach always began with the textile or color, with a defined choice of palette that ranged from pastels to brights. These bold, vivid color have been an enduring and recognizable quality in Torii's work. One distinctive collection was autumn/winter 1986, which mixed rigorously colored tartans and checks for menswear, womenswear, and childrenswear. The collection consisted of lively, wearable separates; oversize tartan shirts, tartan trousers, and comfortable cardigans for men; long tartan flounced skirts for women, teamed with long, skinny rib jumpers or oversized Argyle patterned sweaters; tartan pinafore dresses for girls and a weatherbeaten, mountaineering look for boys, layering tartan overshirts over tartan Levi-style jackets.

WAYNE COOPER

English by birth, Wayne Cooper was a denizen of London's East End before moving to Australia in 1985. He finished law in the U.K., but decided to enroll at East Sydney Technical College to study fashion design upon his arrival down under. After a successful fashion partnership that lasted 7 years, Cooper decided to strike out on his own and launched "Brave." In 1996, he launched "Wayne Cooper," a more exclusive collection, complementing the mid-priced "Brave" label. The designer has traditionally shown at the Mercedes Australian Fashion Week, but has also presented his collections in Japan, and Bryant Park during the Fall 2000 New York fashion season. Also an entrepreneur, Wayne Cooper has six boutiques throughout Australia. The company also wholesales to department stores including David Jones, Myer Grace Bros and a further 50 boutiques throughout Australia and New Zealand.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep11

DHINI

Dhini learned to sew as a girl in Sri Lanka. Now Dhini Pararajasingham, 32, has her own couture label. Growing up in Sri Lanka, Dhini Pararajasingham remembers her grandmother teaching her and identical twin Shini to hand-stitch cotton dolls' clothes. She also remembers being smitten by a video of catwalk models parading Yves St Laurent designs. "I loved the whole feeling of the show; the music, the colour, the gorgeous girls, one after another. I was awestruck." Today, Pararajasingham, 32, has her own label, Dhini Couture, and is attracting tags such as "a genius in complicated tailoring" and "cult designer". But if her parents had had their way, she would have had a career in marketing. "We come from a family that's quite strict and (they believe) you have to have an academic career,'' says the diminutive designer, who left war-torn Sri Lanka aged eight and travelled with her family to India, Europe and the United States before settling in Melbourne in 1990. "My sister wanted to do art and I liked fashion but we didn't have the guts to do it. My parents said, 'Look, do something academic and after you graduate you can do whatever you want to do'." In Pararajasingham's sunny studio - the sitting room of her family's North Balwyn home - three RMIT students on work placement have heads bowed over work tables. It's not always so quiet but with several big projects under way, Pararajasingham has banned banter. Having come late to fashion, it's as if she is making up for lost time - within weeks, the team must finish a range of demi-couture garments for stores around Australia, conceptual pieces for a futuristic installation at a Melbourne boutique, and her new spring/summer collection, which will be unveiled during Australian Fashion Week in Sydney in April. "I was supposed to do a show in India, too, but there was no time so I had to say no,'' she says. "Opportunities like that will come again."

ROY

After 25 years in fashion and a three year hiatus, designer Roy Christou is back with his new label, Honor Among Thieves. Equal parts dashing and disheveled, the Honor Among Thieves label pioneers a return to easy dapper that plays to the scoundrel in all of us. Roy is dedicated to the pursuit of luxury without pretense, and in advocating a smart interpretation of casual. He bears all the marks of a fashion veteran – perfect shapes, cuts and lines; fine fabrics sourced from Australia and Japan, designed to be worn stripped back or piled on. Drawing inspiration from the likes of Oscar Wilde and Nick Cave, Roy's collections embody a refined 1950's rascal aesthetic.

STEPHEN JONES MILLINERY

Stephen Jones OBE (born 31 May 1957) is a leading British milliner based in London, who is considered one of the world's most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.[1] He is also one of the most prolific, having created hats for the catwalk shows of many leading couturiers and fashion designers, such as John Galliano at Dior and Vivienne Westwood.[2] His work is known for its inventiveness and the high level of technical expertise with which he realises his ideas.[3] Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An Anthology for the Victoria & Albert Museum.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep12

DEUX HOMMES

Dimitris Alexakis and Gregory Triantafylou burst into the fashion scene as DEX HOMMES back in 1992. Over the ensuing years, their atelier has become a hothouse of creativity for unique couture pieces made-to-order.

TURNBULL & ASSER

Turnbull & Asser enjoys a prestigious heritage as a Gentleman’s shirt maker and tailor. Established in 1885, we have occupied premises at 71 & 72 Jermyn Street since 1903. Here, we have dressed world leaders, entertainers, captains of industry, royalty and style icons that include James Bond. Today, with our stores in New York, Los Angeles and now the City, our name stands for timeless style and exceptional quality.

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep13

BARBARA BUI

This high-end Parisian label is a study in extremes; both structural and flowy, modestly romantic and aggressively sensual. Barbara Bui has been successful in establishing and expanding the brand over two decades, branching off with two diffusion lines, accessories, fragrances, and even a café in Paris. Though she's long been known for her trousers' flattering fit, as of late Bui's developed a reputation for her Italian-made accessories and shoes. Born in Paris to a Vietnamese father and a French mother, Bui grew up fascinated by language and studied literature at the prestigious Sorbonne. After graduating, she opened a multi-brand boutique, Kabuki, where she slowly introduced her namesake label, eventually opening an eponymous shop in 1988. Though she's launched an accessory line and two diffusion labels, Initials Barbara Bui and Bui, she still works personally with her design team on every piece.

KATHY HAENDELS

Yiannis Tongos

Haendel's haute couture and designs grace the hips of the well-heeled Athenians and have found their way to the Middle East and Abroad.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep14

INES DE LA FRESSANGE

Francois Louis Vuitton

"I never believed in the goddess thing,"says Ines de la Fressange, about her emergence as one of France's legendary beauties. Tall, exquisite, with a perilously delicate frame, the former Chanel supermodel is now a designer and businesswoman, still appearing frequently on television and in magazines. In 1989, at the height of her modeling career, she was chosen as Marianne, the symbol of the French republic, a role in which Brigitte Bardot and Catherine Deneuve preceded her."Actresses and models often can't have a balanced emotional life," she says.

GIEVES & HAWKES

The Story of James Gieve begins with ‘Old Mel’ Melchisedek Meredith’ who owned a tailors shop in the busy waterfront town of Portsmouth. The centre of the seafaring world at that moment, Old Mel drew naval clientele and became the destination for maritime uniforms. Many historical uniforms passed through the shop, with Meredith tailoring the uniform which Admiral Lord Nelson wore when killed in action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. The Portsmouth business was sold to Joseph Galt in 1841 after Old Mel passed away with James Gieve joining as a partner in 1852. The emergence of the Crimean War saw the pair sail to Crimea to continue to trade when most naval officers were posted abroad. Developing the prototype Sea Chest, Galt & Gieve equipped supply ships & serviced troops during the war. James Gieve bought out Galt in 1887 to establish Gieves & Co and following his death in 1888 Gieve’s two sons, James W Gieve & John Gieve, took over the business. In 1900, at a time where 52% of the worlds shipping was controlled by Britain, Gieves became tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. As best friend to the Naval Officer, being dressed by ‘the man from Gieves’ became an integral part of Naval Cadet training which saw 98% of cadets from the Royal Naval College decked in Gieves. Receiving a personal warrant in 1911 of Royal Appointment as the Royal Naval Outfitter to HM King George V, Gieves has already dressed HM King Edward VII and his sons as naval cadets. Gieves went on to dress King Edward VIII, King George VI as the sons of King George V were enrolled at Naval College.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 2 Ep15

KEITA MARUYAMA

Short and sweet, Keita Maruyama's collection was poetry in motion set to fine works of classical music. In perfect harmony with the trend for next fall/winter, he worked his magic with ruffles. Maruyama opened his show with a beautiful, very ladylike trench coat in cream. The coat has ruffles in the back and is to be worn with matching boots. He worked wonders with his knitwear and fringes. A long knit coat complete with fringes will give a woman the movement in time and in space that she will need during her cold afternoons of shopping. The cross-your-heart knit fringed top in grey and matching fringed skirt will certainly guarantee the right kind of attention to she who wears it.

YIORGOS ELEFTHERIADIS

One of Greece's leading designers with followings in Paris and London, each of Eleftheriadis' collections is characterised by an experimentation in texture, shape and form.

 

 

 
FASHION FOLK Series 1 [18x26min episodes]

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep1

NEW YORK Ralph Rucci - New York Maestro of Fashion.

I discovered people like Balenciaga, Charles James and Madam Gray, these are the three tools that I used in my career to propel me. I studied their work voraciously and then, you are talking about the mid 70's, there was a man in fashion that took those three designers and made them real and literally overnight revolutionised fashion, simplified it - and his name was Halston. So I came to New York to work at Halston .

MILAN Ghirardini -Gaetano De Franceschi - The Italian Louis Vuitton, and where Guccio Gucci trained.

All the experiences you have working with leather are important, because leather is a living material and it is important to know just how to sew by hand, "scarnilla" cut it by hand, knowing how to fold leather and handle it, feel it with your hands. Knowing the feel and texture of leather, knowing its beauty and its ablilities as well at what it is unable to do.

NEW YORK Victor Lipko - Judith Lieber

Judith made beautiful products, and they lasted. She would go on a public appearance and a woman would come and say, Mrs. Leiber I bought this fifteen years ago, see how great it is. And she would says"It is time you bought another one!" Judith started making handbags on her own in 1963. She became a GI bride, came to the United States after the war and worked for the most prestigious Handbag Company at the time, which was Nettie Rosenstein. In fact Judith made Mamie Eisenhower's inaugural bag, with the Nettie Rosenstein label. Eventually she got tired of working for other people and in 1963 she hung out her own shingle.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep2

PARIS Emanuel Ungaro - Fashion superstar Emanuel Ungaro - a student of Balenciaga ,combines ultra-refined couture with modern textile composition.

Cristobal was incredibly kind, incredibly warm, incredibly shy – so strong that there was an explosion inside, sometimes he exploded on the outside too. After his death when I wrote so many things about him, his assistants were surprised the way I knew him. I stole the knowledge.

LONDON John De Bruyni - Described as the English Hermes and holders of4 Royal Warrants .

If you look at an English motor car – a Rolls Royce, the inside with all the walnut is saying 'We’re still trying to do what we used to'. If you look at a Cadillac it is saying 'One day man will go to Mars' .The people who find their way here, it is an obstacle course, it is a self selective course, unless of course their fathers introduced them, are looking for a modern way of living today, but plugged into the past.

SYDNEY Tina Kalivas - FASHION - ex-Alexander McQueen, James Bond "costumes" designer.

I met Katie Ingland who is Alexander McQueen's stylist and she asked if I could help so I went and helped on a show and I worked on every show since. That kind of energy, that kind of competitiveness is what makes London a really interesting and exciting place because if everyone is competing it means you have to work even harder which means that standards are higher. And then I worked on a James Bond film 'Die another day' and as soon as that finished I moved to Australia.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep3

MILAN Anna Masotti - La Perla - Daughter/VP ofthe most successful designer-lingerie brand

I have to show myself, because people want to see a face, want to see who is behind the collection. I think that this is good, because I am also a curious person. I want to see who is the creator of something I like very much. I like painting, I like sculpture. If I like something I want to ask this person why did you do this painting for example, because I want to understand you. For me it is not enough just to see something. I want to listen to a point of view. I like to speak with people I don’t like the communication in one direction. For me it is important at this time. People don't talk - they need to talk.

PARIS Jacques Morabito - Master oftortoiseshell and fine leather handbags.

Today, I think customers are looking for design, brand name but they are not aware what makes the quality of a leather product. I remember 20 years ago that customers knew better than I did. I learnt my job with my customers. They knew perfectly well all the different types and qualities of leather, of stitching, of inside lining. Their requirements were incredible.

MADRID Jesus Del Pozo - Golden Needle award, Balenciaga Award winner

I never had drastic changes in my designs. My collections evolve like my life - one step ahead from the previous one. Every new concept is the result of finessing previous ideas. I was offered to go and design in America but decided against it. Staying in Spain, whilst compromising my financial rewards, allowed me to investigate, and innovate, something the American industry would probably not have allowed me to do.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep4

PARIS Mariano Puig - NINA RICCI - Entrepreneur and Fragrance Family behind Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne and Carolina Herrera's perfumes.

You have to make dreams with truth, and what does truth mean, it means that all the effort that you put in one product you have to see it, otherwise the public will never pay the money that you are asking for.

LONDON James Lock - Hatmaker

The bowler hat was originally invented for land owners who had these who had these beaters who worked the land. They kept having their hats knocked off in the undergrowth, not only that thay kept having their head scratched by briars, so they wanted a hard fitting hat to the head. The Top Hat came from France. It landed on our shores in 1798 and it started off in an area called Charing Cross and it was brought to us by John Heatherington. It caused a great fuss when it was first worn, even the horses reared up at the sight of it. Women fainted in the street.

NEW YORK Lambertson Truex - Fashion Accessories

That is my assistant Amanda over there, lovely Amanda. Her mother was in Marocco on a camel. She called us on her cell phone from Marocco saying, "You're not going to believe this I'm in Marocco, I'm riding a camel with my handbag and there is a woman asking me if this is a Lambertson Truex handbag!"

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep5

MELBOURNE Alannah Hill - Fashion Designer - From Tasmanian Milk Bar toAustralian Fashion Icon

Everyone is knocked out by the success. My mother says " You can't sew"...she is still in a paddock in Tasmania. I still send her a magazine with my clothes in it and say mum look at page 44, that is my dress. She'll call up and say "That girl didn't look like you. She is not you". I say "Mum it is not the girl, it is the clothing".

MILAN Romeo Gigli - Architect & Fashion Superstar ofthe 80's, 90's and 2000's.

When a designer becomes really important, in every profession not just in fashion, after 3,4,5, years ,people working in the same area absorb this energy, and this energy influences their point of view. Of course after 4, 5, 6, years, people are searching to discover a new source of creative energy.

PARIS Ashley Dormeuil - Men's fashion cloth & bespoke suit maker

I once said to an American reporter, 'You like going to Saville Row and you get suits made, what do you think of them?' He pondered for a while and he said 'Well if I get three suits made, one will be absolutely outstanding, marvellous and I'll wear it very often. Another one is probably a suit I like, I'll wear it now and then but the third one he says, is probably for one reason or another, I am not very fond of'. It can be irregular depending on the day which the tailor cut it, if he had he gone to bed earlier the previous day or was in an inspired mood when he made the suit. Each suit is unique and individual.

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep6

MILAN Anna Zegna - Bespoke fabric/suit suppliers to the Pope.

The soul [of fashion] is really the fabric, then it develops into style. The English product was very similar season after season. Being Italian, he wanted to add the love of Italian beauty, culture and innovation to the process. For example he used a lot of diagonal threads, he mixed different types of yarns together to be able to get a more resiliant fabric or a better feeling fabric. He used to make "tessutti diopi" which means double faced fabrics - on one side one colour and on the other side a different colour and a different structure. He did a lot of innovation to the 'cooking' of the fabric.

PARIS Michel Gouten - VP Cartier International & CEO LANCEL Leather Accessories.

The potential today for a "small" luxury company is larger because the large luxury conglomerates have extended the taste of the people. If you are a creator and you give to the people something attractive and someting that they really love, they will buy and you will be a success.

ATHENS Celia Kritharioti - Born into a Fashion family , Designing at the tenderage of16, her rich tapestries flow from the hips ofsupermodels NaomiCampbell , Claudia Schiffer and Elle McPherson

It is amazing to seen the psychological influence of a dress on a woman. They come in tired, but as soon as you pull up the zip, they are transformed and energised.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep7

LONDON Arkadius - Polish born pedagogist and one ofLondon's newest Fashion Stars emerging from St Martin's College.

There was nothing else that I wanted to do in life but fashion. Why? because firstly I wanted to do something very creative and secondly the idea of doing painting or sculpture I found it a little dead in the sense that when you paint this picture it simply hangs on a wall, no matter how beautiful the picture is. If you do clothing this clothing could be a piece of art but be alive because you can see it on a model- Kate Moss on the cat walk, then beyond that in photography, photographed by 10 photographers and beyond that it ‘s timeless.

PARIS Daniel Tribouillard - LEONARD - Flower Power Fashion from Paris

I am totally crazy in the creation, and very serious in the management. I work each morning in the areas of business, finance and administration. We have everyday a good lunch, I need the lunch to cut the day because the morning is taken up with the accounting, the lawyers, and in the afternoon I work at the studio with my girls, my models, and my people of the workroom, and I create the garments in the afternoon. Everyday is like that.

NEW YORK Douglas Hannant - Modern Sportswear Fashion

The American lifestyle sort of demands a certain sort of clothing and it is just our sensiblity. We are very mobile and very relaxed and the whole world is becoming more like that. If it looks comfortable, it is usually not very sexy, so it has to be also a balance between those elements as well.

 

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep8

PARIS Christian Pays - Mahlia Kent - Coco Chanel's "other half" and creator ofsumptuous fabrics which define "Haute Couture".

Mahlia was a fabulous person, a genius of creation and in fact she showed me when we visited the company the museum with 50,000 fabrics representing the creative work of the last 50 years. This museum is the only one in the world. I mean Tom Ford came here to Paris and visited our museum to look at the old fabrics in order to create new ones. You know it is fabulous. Mr Lagerfeld comes very often, Jean Paul Gaultier lives next door.

MILAN Stefano Citron, Stephen Vernon, Greg Myler - Mila Schon

You can dress in London for a couple of hundred quid and look amazing and with your last 50 quid buy yourself a drink. In Italy, there are two kind of looks. There is a very kinda classic Max Mara and then you have Donatella Versace's with the blonde hair and all the business.

MADRID Javier Larrainzar - FASHION MADRID - ex-Oscar de la Renta/ex-Royal Spanish Family tailor.

The last time that I went to New York with my father, Oscar [de la Renta] asked, "You want to do something in fashion?" I said, "Yes! I am thinking of going to school in Milano", and he offered to me the opportunity to work with him, once I had finshed my schooling. Oscar said "You can work for 6 months, or something like that, and you will see that you will learn a lot with me". This six months turned into 3 years.

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep9

PARIS Coqueline Courreges - Superstar Fashion Designer Husband/Wife team

My husband Henri Courreges was working 11 years at Balenciaga. One day he decided it was time to branch out. He made an analysis of the world of Haute Couture from 1955 to 1960 and proposed to Balenciaga a change of vision for the whole of couture. Couture needed to evolve . At this time Balenciaga did not really understand these ideas because they were very new, and it was a new generation so he gave Henri the permission to go and explore his ideas on his own.

LONDON Tanner Krolle - Accessories

This is a vegetable tanned and vegetable dyed leather. The skins come from northern Europe and the tanning and the finishing process is done in England. We have been buying from the same tanneries for over 35 years. It is a labour intensive, hand process. It has natural oil and natural waxes and sometimes the leather blooms with natural whiteness that comes through.

SYDNEY Wayne Cooper "Bad-Boy" UK born/Australian FashionStar/Designer.

In Sydney or in Australia they do use their clothes more so as a sexual tool, their bodies are their main weapon. Our recent collection was called 'The Temptress' and it was more about what was hidden and lies beneath. It was not overtly sexual. You'd have this prim piece and a piece you know that wasn't so… and there were slight little touches of revealing sexiness but it wasn't all tits and arse, which we are trying to get away from.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep10

MELBOURNE Bettina Liano - FASHION - The name on the hips of Portia Rossi, Lucy Liu and Kylie Minogue

I was unemployed, I was unemployable, I could not hold down a job, people didn't like me, because I was very serious and also as a young person I was also very clever - older people don't like that necessarily, they try to slap you down a bit. I needed money, I had come into some misfortune family wise. I was a bit on the street kind of thing, starving if you will, very hand to mouth.

LONDON Tomasz Starzewski - Fashion Superstar

The arrogance of youth is the greatest gift that you can be given and I am sure that I would not take the risks today, with the wisdom that I have today of what I did when I was an abnoxious precocious 19 year old. A lot of my contemporaries who went to work in Milan, Paris, New York will never have their own label because they just can't take that step. They are too wise.

PARIS Rosemarie Le Gallais- D. Swarovski - Fashion Jewellery [used to work with Lagerfeld at Chloe]

I have a very funny approach, you know, I never think about something being impossible. We are working with wonderful artisans, most of them in Paris for the moment. Sometimes when I give them the idea in the beginning they say 'Its impossible". When someone says it is impossible I become move convinced that I have to try. This "innocence" gives sometimes a really wonderful result. I put things in total contrast, with unexpected materials. I would put crystals with wood, or crystal with fur, and that made it modern and interesting and then you find ways of using it.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep11

MILAN Vittorio Missoni - Colour Maestro of Fashion.

An artist in a certain way can work when he has a feeling, fashion designers every day you have to show your collection, every day you have appointment with your customers and you cannot leave the market and wait and say o.k. for 6 months I stay out and then I come back. You cannot do this, so really it is very important to be also an entrepreneur.

PARIS Christian Louboutin - Trained in the real "Moulin Rouge" of Parisand under the late Shoe Master "Roger Vivier" , Christian Louboutin designs glide the catwalks of Alexander McQueen, Jean-Paul Gaultierand twinkle the toes ofthe Queen of Jordan.

I wanted to design shoes for the showgirls in Paris. At the beginning they are a classical dancers so they have the breast in "peal" - meaning not round but small with nipples pointing upwards , a tiny waist , the arse of a dancer and they are quite short in general. The reality of a showgirl in France is a "bird parade" - women dressed to resemble beautiful exotic birds.

MELBOURNE Roy Christou - FASHION - UK/Cypriot/Australian designer [ex-partner of Bettina Liano]

Some denim I have used is too good, and it just takes forever to bash up. The manufacturer of the fabric will spend so long making this bullet fabric and then only for me to come along and think, it has cost me too much money to fuck it up. Or they will make a denim that is really tight in its weave and I will want one that is looser in its weave so that it can release the fibres, so it is a bit hairier, there are all different aspects to everything.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep12

SYDNEY Akira - Australian Superstar Fashion Designer - coveted inParis/London

Traditionally Japanese clothes are shapeless - it is called Kimono. It is based on a square format as far as construction is concerned. Also there is a relationship between the fabric and the body - the space between fabric and body. When the fabric moves, it animates and generates a spontaneous design. My idea of covering is seductive. When you hide things - something unseen, which makes you feel like you want to see it - for me that is more desirable than actually showing everything.

LONDON James Whishaw- Gieves & Hawks - Saville Row personified.

There is an excentricity about English people - there is a cultural sort of roll up the sleeves kind of feeling about it. I'll do it myself, kind of cottage industry thing which depending on how it is nurtured, goes into artisan or becomes a very creative, specific talent. But as soon as it becomes commerical we are out of it. We get hand picked because essentially if it is too difficulty for someone else to do it - we want to do it.

PARIS Bernard Lacoste - FASHION - the famous crocodile of Tennis…

I was only 32 and I had the cheek to say to my father " I'll only take over the business it if I can really do what I want". He looked at me and said "What are you saying?". He said after thinking it over a little bit, "On two conditions. I want the name of our family and the crocodile emblem surname to be always well considered. that means only high quality products, sold in the right shops and the right boutiques, First condition. Second condition, I will not give you any family money to invest so you must manage without asking the family for the money. O.K?" I said to him "O.K".

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep13

NEW YORK David Rodriguez - NY's HOT Fashion Designer

I joined Richard [Tyler] before he stated consulting with Anne Klein - so it was in the early days. He really started in a tiny little store in Los Angeles doing custom clothes and before that he was doing clothes for rock stars, like Rod Stewart, Ossie Osborn - his background was very theatrical and there is nothing more theatrical than Rock.

PARIS Raymond Massaro - Legendary Shoemaker [creator ofChanel's shoes]

I liked Coco Chanel a lot. She was a very astute person and knew exactly what she wanted and you had to be very professional in your approach. When I created the very famous Chanel sandal in 1958, Madam Chanel was around 90 years old and she told me if a lady has four pair of sandals - beige with blue: beige with black: beige with brown: and beige with red - you can travel all around the world and you don't need any more luggage.

LONDON Bruce Oldfield - London Fashion supremo/interior designer.

There was always glamour in American fashion . It was always something simple and sleek and it was always poo-pooed by the Europeans, because it was seen, and in fact to some extent it was true, that they made a necessity out their manufacturing capabilities. They made an art of it, because their manufacturing was quite poor.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep14

NEW YORK Mary McFadden- Fashion designer inspired by centuries of costume

My third signature collection is Maori quilting. All these things look extremely delicate and very artistic and look as if they should be in museums but in fact they're indestructible. The most inportant thing is that you step off a bus or an aeroplane looking perfect and that whatever you pack requires no maintenance.

LONDON Guvinda - Rising British Fashion Star - worked for McQueen,MacDonald & Lacroix.

I wrote a letter to McQueen and showed my portfolio, he said to me "When do you want to start?" I said "I'll start tomorrow". Literally the next day, I was on the same shift, 15 hours a day.

PARIS Gianluca Brozetti - ex-Bulgari, LVMH,

When we were in McKenzie, the Gucci family was run by Maurizio with his cousins. They wanted to make the transition from family to management so they came to McKenzie and they got a General manager and a team of people from McKenzie's. It failed. Luxury goods have a spirit, have a soul. They are not just numbers, they are not just logistics they are not just mechanisms, there is something intangible that we sell to our clients that goes beyond the product. So on one side understanding the philosophy of the family which has been creating a successful story, I think it is a key ingredient to continue the successful story later on when you bring in more management, more systems, more professionalism - you should never forget that the success of that product started from a family where there was something intangible.

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep15

PARIS Andree Putman - Design Superstar

Real talent is a mix. It has very much to do with who they are inside. Do they have a very strong nature. Can they take a terrible risk, can they take a terrible failure. Can they accept that the major lady on earth who may be the one who writes in Herald Tribune decides your collection is very poor, and what happens in your house because you did not make it that time. Can you live without a lot of money? Can you wait for things to come to you? Can you be patient? Not selling your name partly or completely. It is as important as talent.

LONDON John Lobb continues to make handmade shoes ofdistinction, enjoyingthe patronage ofthe Royal Family since the mid-1800's.

One of the first things he was able to do, we are not quite sure how, we think from a footprint, he made the Prince of Wales a pair of boots. And the Prince of Wales was pleased with them and granted him the royal warrant. So he had an enormously great royal warrant to put over his shop.

LONDON Anouska Hempel - This British design powerhouse includes fashion,interiors and now commercial spaces [for Van Cleef& Arpels etc...] in her repertoire.

I thought if you could dress a 4 poster bed, you could probably sort of have more fun with something that moved around a bit. It is part of a lifestyle and architectural lifestyle is something that I am really all about, at the end of the day without realising. It has something to do with fashion, food, gardens, it is a mixture of what your life it about.

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep16

MUNICH Willy Bogner - Billion-dollar Ski fashion designer business, filmaker[ski scenes in all James Bond Movies], ex-Olympic skier.

As a ski racer I was always quite furious when they would say 'well you are only a sportsman' and 'sportsmen don't think'. So I was fighting this labeling from the very beginning. Sport was a big way to learn because you learn how to loose. My most famous sports achievement or non-achievement was in the Olympic in Squaw Valley where I was leading by a second and I had to just basically come down and I fell, and it was a disaster. It is typical of sport, one moment you are champion and the next you are nothing and to be able to deal with that is a great lesson.

NEW YORK William Calvert

When I went to Balmain I helped the designer prepare the haute couture and once you have seen that you really aren't interested in t-shirts any more. People think "Oh, how can a dress or a jacket cost $100,000.00?" Well when you take fabric that has been on some special loom by the most technical advanced or the most knowledgeable person and it is $1,000.00 a yard, and then you employ the 5 best technicians to create that garment at about $50.00 - $100.00 hour and they work 100 hours a piece, suddenly that garment is getting very expensive. But the thing about haute couture is that it is a laboratory, like a Formula 1 racing unit, where all the new ideas and techniques are tested out and proven and figured out so it is much simpler and less expensive once these ideas are put into ready to wear.

LONDON Marie Steichenberger - HOLLAND & HOLLAND

Mr Holland was crazy about Safari and he started to travel a lot and Holland and Holland became a house of adventure travel to other countries. So we had two concerns, the gun and the adventure travel.

 

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep17

NEW YORK Dana Buchman - Fashion Superstar

In 1976 I remember being down on 7th Avenue and looking up at the skyscrapers and thinking how do I get in. I had never really had a real job in the fashion industry and there are unwritten rules that I did not know - this was hippy times and I remember coming to work in hiking boots with a rag wrapped around my head and I don't want to tell you the name of the company but it is a very respectable company still working and it was like "Oh my God" ...

LONDON Stephen Jones Hatmaker to 80's/90's fashion icons Montana, Muglerand Gaultier, Jones now makes hats with buddy John Galliano and stamps with British Post!

I am a milliner, but I am also a therapist, a psychiatrist, all those different things, because I think that when you are a milliner – it is such a personal thing to do. Whether I am working with a lady from the countryside or a pop star or John Galliano, it is all about getting as close to them as possible and then trying to sort of put their character and my character into a hat.

SYDNEY Nicky Zimmermann - FASHION - Swimsuits good enough forVictoria's Secrets.

We were a very small company at the time when Fashion Week happened, we had no money but it was always the most successful move that we have every done. By picking up those wholesalers we got an interview with CNN with Elsa Clench and from that we picked up a US distributor and from there we are with Victoria Secrets, and we do significant volume in the USA.

 

 

 

FASHION FOLK SERIES 1 Ep18

MILAN Alessandro Dell'Acqua- Italy's hottest fashion superstar is asked to re-invigorate Borbonese , one ofItaly's famous leathergoods makers

The spirit of Borbonese is the exact contrary of my own label. That is why it is very interesting, because I work in two different directions . The Borbonese woman is one who likes to travel the world, is sophisticated, not too extravagant , extremely fashionable , but very classical - never bourgeois. My personal label is more experimental and cutting edge.

NEW YORK Eric Javits - Revered Fashion Milliner

It has been a journey to say the least because we really don't have a tradition in this country of people using their hands and making that their livelihood. So I have had to find people where I could and have had to train some of them and almost everyone you know that I have in my manufacturing plant has been trained in-house.

MADRID Devota Lomba

 

 

 

 

MASTER